Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What are the differences between a R34 GTR M-Spec and V-spec? What is different from a V-Spec to a V-spec II, what did they change? Is the only difference from a plain jane R34 GTR to a Vspec the suspension and the diff like the R33 GTR?

Can anyone confirm what Nür means, I assume it has something to do with nurburgring, and i read somewhere that you get N1 engine and turbos.

I've never really take an interest in R34s until recently, and was wondering why a plain R34 GTR goes for like 65 grand when, I recently found a R34 GTR Vspec II Nür forsale in japan and it was going to cost like 130 grand by the time it got here and was complied.

V-Spec:

Brake cooling air guide

Front diffuser and rear carbon diffuser

Active LSD and ATTESA-ETS Pro

Harder suspension

Updated tachometer

V-Spec II:

Same extras as V-Spec but based on the "series 2" BNR34 which included

N1 rear calipers on whole GTR range

Aluminium pedals on whole GTR range

Revised interior colour scheme (series 1 grey cloth, series 2 black cloth) on whole GTR range

Revised centre console colour scheme (series 1 gold, series 2 illidium)on whole GTR range

Clear front and side indicators on whole GTR range

Carbon fibre bonnet with NACA duct on V-Spec II

M-Spec:

Based on V-Spec II

Leather interior

Front seat heaters

Special ripple control shock absorber

Special rear stabiliser bar

Fine grip type steering wheel with gold stitching

Aluminium bonnet (optional carbon fibre with NACA duct)

Exclusive body colour

Limited edition of 50 per month

V-spec II Nur & M-Spec Nur:

Based on either V-Spec II or M-Spec with following additions

Limited edition of 1000 build only

N1 turbochargers

N1 engine block

N1 pistons with weight balancing

N1 piston rings

Weight-balanced conrods

N1 oil pump

N1 water pump

N1 exhaust manifold

N1 intercooler piping

Exclusive cam cover colour

Exclusive gold VIN plate

Exclusive rear emblem

The Nur was the last of the last R34 GTR's to come from Nissan, and the last produced RB26DETT's, which is why you pay a premium for them. You can see on the above list of modifications why V-Spec's and M-Specs command a higher price than normal GTR's.

Build figures of each are:

Standard GTR: 3,169

V-Spec: 4,619

Nur: 1000

amaru is spot on .

A couple of things to add to though .

All v-specs + m-specs have 2 extra functions on the mdf , i/cooler temp and exhaust temp .

M-specs have heated external mirrors as well as heated seats .

M-specs made from may 2001 on .

I don't know the biult number for m-specs but all up about 1300 including nur m-specs .

M-specs have bigger battery as well as bigger terminals .

  • 9 years later...

Thanks Guys this has cleared up a lot of things for me too as I am in the process of buying a R34 M spec Nur as I thought someone was trying to sell me a V spec Nur with a M spec rear emblem. Just one more thing, what about the seats I know they are leather and heated on the M spec Nur with yellow or silver stitching, but does the M spec Nur have the same leather seats as the std M spec ?? I think all that does change is the stitching colour I think, on the std M spec its just black stitching as per leather colour ?? . For example heated leather seats with the GTR emblem embossed near the top of the seat below the head rest and black stitching is std and all the M specs and just the colour of the stitching changes on the M spec Nurs ?? Sorry if this question is a little confusing.

  • 5 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...