Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mate mine does that to. Flashes for a few seconds then turns off. I think it has something to do with the fact that it's no longer auto (assuming u had the auto-manual converstion). You should have a button on the center console, behind the handbrake, that has the different 'power' options. If you flick it to 'power' option it will light up the power option on ur dash. Pretty much, when it was an auto this option would hold the gear longer before the auto transmission would select the next gear, giving u more power. Since it is no longer auto, this feature is no longer valid, thus I THINK why it flashes, stating it isn't working.

Once again don't quote me on this, i am a newbie when it comes to these thing, only had the cefiro since Friday. Also i think it is the same deal with the HICAS light which is below the dash to left of steering wheel. Mine is constantly ON, due to the fact that the HICAS has been disabled.......

My 2 cents

Ando

cheers, yeah i was also thinking along the same lines as mine was also previously auto. although no power button on centre console :confused: , guessing that the centre console has been replaced with a proper manual one in my case. but in the middle of the dash where the old auto selector lights are it says O/D (overdrive), so basically they had an overdrive, hold and power function i'm guessing.

and up also got that HICAS light coming on due to my lock bar. (although i've since put a piece of black electrical tape over it)

Its definately to do with the auto transmission....as mentioned, i for some reason still have the switch that would of been used to activate/deactivate this power option. It has 3 setting...snow/normal/power....obviously snow would retard the revs, normal well yeah normal, and power makin the gears rev longer. When i flick this switch to power, it lights up on the dash, flick it back to normal and it goes.......

When i catch up with you sometime CC i'll show you.

I really think it is just a feature thats is useless once the manual conversion is done....

yep the feature does nothing once the manual conversion is done, all it means is the auto trans revs higher before it changes gear, A lot of cars have that including commodores,

basically it switches on when you first start the car because it's the engine / gearbox / ecu getting ready and programmed itself etc,

same as to why on cars your oil light will come on for the first few secs of starting,

it's the dash's way of saying "hey i have no oil!... oh wait, my mistake, there IS oil just not warmed up, i get it now, i'll take the light away"

or in this case...

"hey you just started the car let me get my gearbox groove on, ok it's fine now i see you started the car i take the light away"

nothing to be afraid of. i hope

Actually its the dash saying "Konichiwa! this oil light is indicating that the shitty factory pressure sensor hasnt actually registered that theres pressure yet... I recommend getting an aftermarket oil pressure guage. Oh wait heres the signal now... Good bye".

(although i've since put a piece of black electrical tape over it)

that shit's funny...electrical tape fixes all your troubles...a mate's r33 was pretty much held together by that shit...oh and cable ties too...

take out the dash surround (3screws) then remove the dash (4screws) take off the light bulb that's in the slot for power/hicas or what ever other thing you dont wanna see...while you're at it, put elec tape over the auto gear position thingy your know the (P R N D 2 1) :thumbsup: easy fix :cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Re read everything that has been written about this in this thread.. Let us know if you're still confused.
    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
    • Don't do what I did, use a 300000km old housing with billet gears. The old pump probably was clearanced with saw dust, Edward Lee's special engine treatment sauce and a good odo wind back. I had oil pressure issues, then replaces pump with new housing, new billet gears and 2x track day later binned a motor due to other oil related issues due to a previous engine builder. Long story short, buy a M2 or 3 or 4 N55/S55/S58 and enjoy life.
    • Yeah. "New pump" does not have to mean "massive pump".
    • Well, can you still get an OEM pump, and by the time you're buying a Nismo/N1 etc, just buy another aftermarket pump. It's better to have the pump able to flow more if its needed, than for your pressure to drop off. At any point in time, you're replacing the oil pump in a rebuild. Aftermarket pumps are likely going to be a better economical choice, and they don't have any negatives, even if they can flow more.   Also, when you're saying "replace the pump gears" are you meaning leave a 25+ year old housing in the engine with unknown wear, and just put new gears in? As that sounds silly to me, especially if you do have that minute amount of wear, that means your new pump gears now have a little bit more clearance beside them, which means, whelp, you may not get to build a lot of oil pressure or make a lot of flow.
×
×
  • Create New...