Jump to content
SAU Community

RB20DET problem *WRX sound*

negativecamber
 Share

Recommended Posts

negativecamber Collaborator

negativecamber

Posted
Posted

hey people i need some advice,

i have a rb20det 5 spd in my S13 silvia....

tonight all of a sudden it started rumbling and it sounded exactly like a WRX boxer engine. it was making normal boost levels but the power felt lower and it was very lumpy!!!! i pulled over and had a look under the bonnet, when i gave the throttle a little twist, i could hear a sound like a hiss. i couldn't destinguish if it was an air leak or if it was like a squirting sound. (if you understand me?) but the sound was around the top of the engine where the intake pipe meets the throttle body. is this a common problem some people have heard? or will it be something to go see a doctor about???

after i stopped after and turned off the engine for 30 mins it was fine again. then it happened for about 5 minutes while driving home. what is thisssssss?????

any help would be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77208-rb20det-problem-wrx-sound/
Share on other sites
Bazelinez Proficient

Bazelinez

Posted
Posted

Dead coil pack dude! Guarentee it. Take off the plug cover and unplug each one individually. The engine will run even rougher on each one. When you unplug the one that makes no difference you've found the stuffed one :D

Mine did this when I imported it and as soon as it got warm the dodgy one would fail.

good luck.

R31 POWER Mentor

R31 POWER

Posted
Posted

I had the same problem but it was a spark plug,the ceramic bit above the gap cracked and slid down to cover the spark gap.Everynow and then it would back to normal,must of been the comp pushing it back up etc.

So yer as baselinez said coil pack coz it's not sparking.

Also spray carby clean around the inlet manifold(where the top/bottom meets)join and see if the idle changes.Could be gasket or maybe just tighting of the bolts.

FATGTS-R Experienced

FATGTS-R

Posted
Posted

I have had this problem many times and had many reasons for it.

As mentioned it could be a faulty plug or a faulty ignition coil or module. It can also be caused by a leak in the inlet tract.

As you heard a hissing sound around the throttle area I would be starting there first and looking closely at the rubber joiner for a split.

And while you have the crossover pipe off may as well throw in some new plugs.

psybic Proficient

psybic

Posted
Posted

Its gotta be ignition.

Mine comes and goes just like that on my RB26. Seriously just goes into Rexy mode, then 5mins later, goes to GTR mode. (GTR is better by the way, hehe).

It has to be ignition, because if it was a cracked seal or something it would be more constant, I think mine might even be the plug going into the module, hope its not a coil pack.

negativecamber Collaborator

negativecamber

Posted
  • Author
Posted

will a dud coil pack come and go though? cause today the problem seemed not existent. but i bet it'll go on the weekend again. also just noticed my clutch is starting to get very slippery, so thats more money i have to spend. is the RB sound really worth it in the end??? i'm thinking maybe an SR would have been the better option :D

darkrams69 Enthusiast

darkrams69

Posted
Posted

just like almost the majority of contributors on this thread, i say that it is you coils. get them replaced.

(quote:'m thinking maybe an SR would have been the better option ) believe me, the RB is way better!

Bazelinez Proficient

Bazelinez

Posted
Posted

Dude, its basically the only problem the RBs have and its just due to age. Yes with my car the problem came and went until it stayed stuffed for good.

Do the test and it will prove if its them or not.

You can't blame a slipping clutch on the motor type :D Its just one of those things. Stick with it, the RB shits on the SR. One dud coil is the only problem i've had on mine in 6 months since I imported it. Fix it and you'll be fine! Keep us posted!

negativecamber Collaborator

negativecamber

Posted
  • Author
Posted

lol that was what i was like too, i was like: "hey cool i sound like a modded WRX!" then i started driving like miss daisy and worrying about it hahahah but i enjoyed the sound but not the rumble through the car etc.

i will try to suss out the coil packs on the weekend, and get back to you's!

psybic Proficient

psybic

Posted
Posted

Anyone?

Can you tell us how to test each coil?

Because if its going to be a matter of trialing each coil being swapped over, it could take 3 months, as its inconsistant whether it works or not. So I'll swap one, then wait a week, then swap the next one, wait another week or two and so on.

There must be some way to test.

Oosh Veteran

Oosh

Posted
Posted

Like he said, just unplug them one by one, if the one you unplug is GOOD the car will sound even WORSE, so plug it back in and move on to another until you get to one that when unplugged makes no difference, that's the cylinder that's down.

But don't just assume it's the coil, pull the spark plug out and check it (is if fouled? clean it and see if things improve), swap a pack around and see if the dropped cylinder follows the coil, if not to loom could be damaged, etc.

If it's a dud coilpack buy a new one, or if you intend to run high-boost in the future maybe think about a set of SplitFires (~$650).

psybic Proficient

psybic

Posted
Posted

I say again:

Because if its going to be a matter of trialing each coil being swapped over, it could take 3 months, as its inconsistant whether it works or not. So I'll swap one, then wait a week, then swap the next one, wait another week or two and so on.

This is relevant because the guy the started the thread and myself are NOT having the problem all the time, but would like to fix it before it comes an ALL THE TIME thing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Getting lug nuts "gutentight" with no torque wrench

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Or get a guy in his early fiftys to do it. A single good "oof" and about two cracks from his lower back is about the right tightness...
    • GTSBoy
      Getting lug nuts "gutentight" with no torque wrench

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It's impossible to convey what it will feel like to get the right torque. But you can develop a feel for it. A 900mm breaker bar is.....f**king huge. I only use a normal ~400mm one. But with 900mm being very nearly a metre, and the right torque being in the order of 100Nm, then you're going to need a bit over 100N of force, which is about 10 kg. So if you practice using the bar pulling up, instead of pushing down, then it will be about the same effort as lifting a 10kg bucket of water. That's what the pressure against your fingers should feel like. Ish. If you use a more typical length breaker, then it's about twice that. So a good 20 litre bucket, or a little bit more.
    • DraftySquash
      Getting lug nuts "gutentight" with no torque wrench

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Also, if anyone has a torque wrench around Williams Landing area and can lend it to me for like 5 mins - I got 4 bottles of Furphy left and I’ll throw that in with a Happy meal 😂
    • DraftySquash
      Getting lug nuts "gutentight" with no torque wrench

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      So today I decided to bleed my brake fluid, which meant to the wheels came off the car at my garage for the first time. I only had a 90cm breaker bar with me and I noticed that some 1 or 2 lug nuts were a bit hard to get loose (from when the shop did the coilovers) Now.... when it came to putting them back on, I didn't want to put all my weight and overtighten them. So I hand tightened as much as possible and then put normal pressure on the edge of the breaker bar and tightened it until I couldn't turn it anymore without putting in an effort. Do you think that is tight enough? Or is that still too tight?  They are tighter than finger tight. Last thing I want is to have them strip or warp sh*t. But hard times mean I can't just go down to Supercheap and get a torque wrench 🥺
    • joshuaho96
      Coc or nox of nissan skyline

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Dunno what to tell you, when I look at it on Consult I can see this warmup timing map kicking in around 40C coolant temp and it sticks around for a while:  At part throttle on the normal base timing map it peaks around ~43 degrees of timing or something like that, this warmup timing map drops it to like 12-15 degrees. 
×
×
  • Create New...