R34 N1 Trubos - how much boost

[itbmils]

1/can i see a chart with the awkw on it?

Yep !

The darker lines are for comparison from a base line run I did with my old turbos and b4 the engine rebuild (about 12 months ago)

2/afm and injectors should help BUT there maybe a problem with fuel delivery (ie pump and filter etc)

new Tomei fuel pump and fuel filter installed last week

3/ are your injectors and afms maxing out on the run it's a very easy thing to see with the pfc hand controller max recall?

Agree - but they turned the car off b4 I could check it - that resets the HC - yes

The MAX knock I have seen so far is ~47

The MAX AFM (volts?) reading I have seem so far is ~4.8

The MAx injector duty cycle I have seen so far is in the high 90%

Sorry guys - I still a noobe with the PFC

[Beer Baron]

3/ are your injectors and afms maxing out on the run it's a very easy thing to see with the pfc hand controller max recall?

werd. check this out first before you start chasing your tail. switch to monitoring inj duty and afm voltage, turn on peak hold and give it a run, if you can't do it on the dyno, do it on the highway, start at the on ramp and rev it right through first and right through second and unfortunately that is all you can legally do. the read the peak values. if you inj duty is at 100% and afm voltage at 5.1 then yes an injector upgrade and afm upgrade would be wise. if not you either have fuel delivery to the rail problem (pump, reg, lines, filter etc) or a tuning problem (poor tune). knock of 47 is too high too imo. I drive the nuts off my car when I'm at the track and it sees a few 6000rpm dumps and a few 7000rpm shifts and the knock is never above 15 since I had the cam gears adjusted (even before that was never over 25).

[pnblight]

ok well take it for a run down the road and just keep an eye on the engine warning light. It should be able to give you a good indication where your at , but do make sure your got all your warning enabled in the pfc. I find the best way is in the monitoring mode with 8 display mode (pick the most suitable 8 inputs and enable peak hold)then just check after each run and reset before the next.

pete

[itbmils]

werd. check this out first before you start chasing your tail. switch to monitoring inj duty and afm voltage, turn on peak hold and give it a run, if you can't do it on the dyno, do it on the highway, start at the on ramp and rev it right through first and right through second and unfortunately that is all you can legally do. the read the peak values. if you inj duty is at 100% and afm voltage at 5.1 then yes an injector upgrade and afm upgrade would be wise. if not you either have fuel delivery to the rail problem (pump, reg, lines, filter etc) or a tuning problem (poor tune). knock of 47 is too high too imo. I drive the nuts off my car when I'm at the track and it sees a few 6000rpm dumps and a few 7000rpm shifts and the knock is never above 15 since I had the cam gears adjusted (even before that was never over 25).

Ok - will do - will need to wait for the rain to stop tho !!!

BTW - I already have Tomei adj cam gears installed (IN and EX) - does that make these readings worse ?

[pnblight]

Ok - will do - will need to wait for the rain to stop tho !!!

BTW - I already have Tomei adj cam gears installed (IN and EX) - does that make these readings  worse ?

cam gears are not your problem here and would really not impact result they are just a tuning tool for setting the cam to crank timing. Your problem is fuel and a/f ratio.

But on another note sense you have cam gears its well worth it when you have sorted out your fuel problem, it well worth spending some time to tune the cams as i have seen 30rwhp and 300nm of tractable effect increases on std cams and my went 100rwhp on stage to poncams. Just some food for thought.

pete

[rev210]

I just had mine tuned today.

A nice conservative de-tune to look after the 240,000kms+ motor. Even at the 13.8psi of boost it could quite easily have the fuel and ignition cranked to get 400rwhp (at one stage it was heading that way so we put a stop to that). A purfect little bit of extra power for the daily work vehicle.

[Beer Baron]

Ok - will do - will need to wait for the rain to stop tho !!!

BTW - I already have Tomei adj cam gears installed (IN and EX) - does that make these readings  worse ?

no it doesn't really make them worse. I was more just saying that you should be able to achieve a knock of well under 30 with some tuning work. ignition timing is very crucial when it comes to engine knock, not just the AFR. i was quite surprised that tuning the cam gears affected my knock readings but it did. without touching the PFC, just by changing the cam gear settings the boost rose by 2psi, the AFR leaned out slightly and the knock level is now lower. oh, and the car made 30kw more atw.

[Cubes]

I'm curious...

How were the cam gears adjusted? Did the changes increase or decrease cam overlap?

[itbmils]

Cubes - to be honest I don't know how the cam gears are currently set - tho I will ask and let you know

Also - I've just filled up with 98 ron fuel (I always use PULP) and added a bottle of Octane Boost (Wyns) - and now my knock level peaks at 40 – even at full noise, and only at 7500rpm and above.

The other thing I noted was that my knock level hits 30 – even when not driving hard. I've herd that forged pistons (I have Wysco BTW) can make the engine noisy (especially when cold). Is this true – and does anyone know if Wysco are a particularly noisy piston. Could this make my knock readings look higher than they are – and if so how else do I check for pinging ?

NB - I am NOT pushing hard when the engine is cold, and I did re-set the peak holds after the engine had warmed up. (I understand that forged pistons rattle less once warm - yes?)

[Cubes]

I run wiseco's with the largest recommended bore to piston clearance which is apparently for 24+psi or track use.

I do get piston slap first thing in the morning, however it doesn't register as knock on the PFC controller. So I doubt piston knock is picked up by the knock sensors, possibly the hz is not correct so it ignores it?

Driving around normally I get a maxiumum knock of 10.

From idle to peak RPM (5000rpm lol) she generally doesn't go over 18.

What I have noticed is that part throttle full boost or coming off half way through the gear peaks knock up around 30 some times 35. Obviously a couple of little places on the map are running slightly more ignition timing than it should.

[djr81]

For what it is worth (Probably not much) I overlayed the dyno charts from PNBlights R33 (with 0.6 A/R comp Garrett GT25-60's plus other goodies), itbmils (with 0.42 A/R R34 N1's) & my R32 running stock turbos & 13lb. Hopefully gives an idea of the gains for the various set ups.

[rev210]

itbmils,

You need to take some timing out. By the sounds of it the tune was aiming at getting you lots of power. The problem is it can leave very little margin for changes in air quality and temperatures resulting in higher than you want knock values.

The normal driving knock under light throttle / cruising might be a buggered O2 sensor. We found mine were stuffed when we were tuning mine in 'closed loop' so for the time being I have it turned off and will suffer the slightly worse fuel ecconomy, for the sake of safety. Mind you the fuel ecconomy was crap as a result anyway, so it might even improve.

[itbmils]

OK

where is the O2 sensor - and how do I check if it's faulty ?

[Beer Baron]

there are two of them. one in each dump pipe. you can check by going into the sensor check screen in the PFC HC. look for one having a very different value than the other, or one that doesn't change voltage at all, regardless of condition. personally I can't see them affecting knock at all. they will only affect the tune whilst you are cruising at light load/part throttle. under full throttle the ecu is in 'open loop' (ie. not targetting a specific AFR as shown by the o2 sensors)

[Cubes]

Generally for light load tuning you turn off the O2 sensor then tune up to around 30rwkw with a 14.7:1 AFR.

Then turn back on the O2 closed loop mode, the idea is the afr's are nearly spot on so bugger all trim has to occur.

[itbmils]

So

if I have custom dump pipes - is it possible my O2 sensors are NOT connected ?

[lwells]

So  

if I have custom dump pipes - is it possible my O2 sensors are NOT connected ?

Its possible. All the aftermarket dumps I have seen from major tuning houses allow for O2 sensors, so it would be unusual.

LW.