Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, All

I 'm looking for next family ride, now it's only a matter of toss between inport myself or buy local.

However I need your advice in term of " how to identify crash repaired " and the "Odometer (spell) reading".

I have been to a few yard in Sydney and check up different imports, some of them have lower kilometers, which is like a 98 model with 35000km on it, or a 97 model with 52000km on it. does this sounds right to you? Most auction sheet I have saw so far all like 60K +, yes, I do see some lower one in auction with grade 4.5 /4 and sold for outside our budget, but what happen to those already here, i.e. a 98' with 35000km chamonix ask for 26000 on a QLD dealer's website? Could it be possible? how do you know the odometer is original reading? can ppl trick it?

and how / where to check if this delica has been crash repaired?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77312-how-to-check-if-car-crash-repaired/
Share on other sites

The way i usually tell if a vehicle has been crash repaired is pretty much go over the whole car with a fine tooth comb (thoroughly). Check all seam seals (cracks, inconsistancy, different on one side to the other), check all edges for fuzzy paint edges, check all window seals for oversparay (especially on 1/4 panel - roof area, check this area for paint fade-outs too), check panels for inconsistant peel, dullness, defects, shrinkback ect. check for colour differences from panel to panel. make sure the car is in a well lit area and look on an angle down the sides, check for rippley/wavey panels. make sure all gaps are consistant. make sure doors, bonnet, boot all open/close without problems. Always good if you can check underneath the car too, chassis rails, under guards ect. It takes awhile to check all these things, but well worth it in the end, hope that helps.

sam

Whites can have a few variations, darker-lighter, dirty-clean, red-green and yellow-blue

Silvers most obvious are light-dark, fine-coarse, there are also varied colour undertones to look for, most comon is a silver is yellow-blue.

The best way to pick a colour variation is to check the flip, to do this, make sure the car is in the sunlight (also helps if the car is clean) and look on an angle towards the two panels.

im a spray painter btw, so i gotta do this stuff everyday :D

Dont bother looking at the odo to tell the k's, they can be wound back easily, and just as easily swapped for another one. Look at the steering wheel and pedals for wear, aswell as the drivers seat condition etc. A car with 50k's on it and a worn out steering wheel has something that doesn't add up.

At the end of the day the k's dont matter, its the condition thats important.

The way i usually tell if a vehicle has been crash repaired is pretty much go over the whole car with a fine tooth comb (thoroughly). Check all seam seals (cracks, inconsistancy, different on one side to the other), check all edges for fuzzy paint edges, check all window seals for oversparay (especially on 1/4 panel - roof area, check this area for paint fade-outs too), check panels for inconsistant peel, dullness, defects, shrinkback ect. check for colour differences from panel to panel. make sure the car is in a well lit area and look on an angle down the sides, check for rippley/wavey panels. make sure all gaps are consistant. make sure doors, bonnet, boot all open/close without problems. Always good if you can check underneath the car too, chassis rails, under guards ect. It takes awhile to check all these things, but well worth it in the end, hope that helps.

sam

thats a good explanation of what to do, its what i was going to say!

look for plastic welding around the front of the car as sign of minor front end accidents..

most imports have been resprayed, or at least a large part of the car has been painted.. probably more important than minor accident damage is rust, check for sgins of corrosion around the engine bay on the alloy parts, there is a lot of rusty imports around, they usually paint the whole car so its not obvious but u can tell especially by looking in the engine bay, boot and under the car (either rusty or covered in fresh tar)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I believe when they added coolant to cool the turbo it negated the need for turbo timers as water continues to flow even when the engine is shut off I forget the actual terminology, I'll just say the coolant "percolates" through the turbo which stops the oil cooking itself to death  Well....that's how I see it, as all the plant at work that has coolant lines to the turbo can be shut down straight away, whereas the older plant with only oil feed to the turbo you need to idle it for a few minutes
    • What is the current snail?
    • Never an issue with boost control. No weird boost issues pre throttle at partial throttle like you're suggesting. It worked.   As for all the turbo damage claims, they all were started by aftermarket BOV companies. At least turbo timer companies had SOME truth about them, except people failed to realise that except for in extreme circumstances, that small amount of driving you do to park/ through pit lane etc, is enough to not have a need for a turbo timer.
    • I tell people all the time this stuff runs on a 2 MHz 8-bit MCU. The math is a bit arcane, they do a lot to get around their limited resolution and so on but it works great as-shipped. So if an 80 to 160 MHz modern 32-bit MCU can't make it work you've really screwed something up badly. Your average graphing calculator is faster these days, god forbid we start talking about what's hiding in vapes or some stupid internet-connected "smart appliance".  I suspect the lore about off-throttle surge damaging turbos must be very, very old if it was ever true. I still don't think off throttle surge is good for turbos because you're rapidly having air going in and out of the turbo on top of rapid loss in shaft speed which presumably does impart some kind of unusual load on the rotating assembly. As for the recirculating valve, I believe Nissan actually in a press slide deck of some kind explained for the RZ34 they found it improved response. Prior to that they kept the throttle cracked open instead which causes rev hang and because the throttle/engine is a substantial restriction a ton of the energy in the air stream is lost just to pumping past it. Recirculating helps reduce energy loss by bringing the intake side of the compressor up in pressure so it's not working as hard to pull air in. In DCT cars where they can slam gears I believe Porsche hangs the throttle wide open with no fuel injection to keep turbo RPMs as high as possible during the shift. As for running post-throttle boost source, I would be concerned that at partial throttle on boost you would have driveability issues. It would be constantly trying to run crazy amounts of boost before the throttle to compensate for the throttling effect. Maybe with a much more sophisticated boost control setup you could activate a solenoid that goes from a conventional 3-port setup to something that allows the wastegates to see full vacuum in that specific case? 
    • Did you clean everything out? Take all intercooler piping off, empty the intercooler of oil, clean the exhaust out, etc? Intercoolers make great catch cans... Which makes them less useful for intercooling... But very worth cleaning out, along with all adjoining piping.
×
×
  • Create New...