Heater Element flush Success!!!

[jezzerrr]

Well instead of going the expensive and painful route of pulling the dash out and replacing the heater element, seeing as mine wasn't leaking, and I'm a cheap lazy bastard, I flushed the element with weak caustic, and it worked!!!

I will write a how to in coming days if demand is strong enough, but basically it's as simple as getting 2 pieces of clear hose around a metre in length, connecting them to the inlet and outlet, obtaining a caustic based cleaner (or radiator flush!), and alternating between the chemical and water, until you get nothing but clean water flowing out of the element. just use a bit of common sense, ie backflushing, etc, and you should be set. Oh and try not to get any chemical on your paint work, or shiny alloy bits!

When you're flushing, it's a good idea to blow out the chemical/water with air first (I literally "blew" through it with my mouth, just wash off the top of the hose before you do this) as the chemical will react with water. Just how much, I'm not sure, but it's best to be on the safe side. Make sure you wash the crap off you until that soapy feeling goes away - that's the caustic reacting with the fat in your skin, making it slippery!

Anyhoo so after about 3 soakings with the caustic solution (0.5% caustic solution, dont use any stronger!) and a good blast through both ways with the garden hose, pulsing it by kinking it etc, until nothing else came out, and then flushing once more for good measure, the flow went from feeling like blowing through a maccas straw, to being able to put a bit less than full hose flow through it!

So it can be done!!! and still no leaks in the cabin, i'm stoked!

[Abo Bob]

What was wrong to make you do this? Heater no worky?

[jezzerrr]

correcto :-) but it's not necessarily the only reason... There is a flap in the heater box controlled by the climate control that diverts air to or away from the heater element. ATM it's not working... but the element DEFINATELY needed flushing

[Cubes]

The best method apart from a new or reco'd core is to rig up a mains water hose and air compressor nossle that Y's into one pipe. Reverse flush and pulse the compressed air.

Water will fly out violently when the compressed air is pulsed.

This method has worked for me where rad flushes haven't.

Be sure to turn the ign. on and heater control on so the flap opens, otherwise you will not get flow through the core.

[jezzerrr]

I would have to disagree with you there, I'm under the impression that water ALWAYS flows through the core, and the only thing that controls temperature is the flap diverting air to/away from the heater core. Unless there is some kind of valve attached at the motor end of the heater core hoses hoses, is there? That's for the '33 anyway, it may be different again on the 32's?

If you remove the hoses at the fire wall, all you are dealing with is the core, there are no valves between the inlet and outlet.

Yeah I'm not sure just how effective radiator flush products are, but I can assure you 0.5%caustic works a treat. I work in a chemical plant where the stuff is readily available, so it makes it a bit easier to get a hold of the good stuff! I soaked it 3 times about 10 minutes a time, then hit it with high pressure water, pulsing by kinking etc... the water was deep reddish brown during each flush, so it musta been doin something! by the final soak not one bit of debris came out, and the flow increase was huge!

[Cubes]

Thats not the way it works with my 1992 R32 GTST.

If I don't have the ignition on and heater selected I cannot get any water to flow through the core.

It simply blows back at me and makes me wet.

VL Commodores are also the same as are EF Ford Falcons.

This is why many people say to turn the heater on when bleeding the head.

This was the experience I had with mine. Besides the point... There is no method of controlling water flow to the core apart from within the firewall some where as the hoses are simply that.. hoses that rununder the manifold etc..

I know this also as I have removed the rb20det and slotted in the rb30det, at the same time replacing all the heater hoses. A good $400 later.

Hit yours with compressed air and water and I you will get even more crap out.

My heater is so hot that you cannot hold your hand in front of the vents for long as it burns.

Also.. For others... When doing this with the R32's be sure to bleed the heater hoses via the T-piece attached on the top heater hose that runs along the firewall, WITH the ignition and heater on. The T piece is directly behind the inlet cam cover.

Failing to do so will cause overheating. Don't forget to also bleed the plenum.

I use an old radiator cap that I've drilled a hole in that fits perfectly a pump bottle lid that has had the white popper bit removed. I dabbed some silicone around the edge and forced it in. Nice and tight.

Cut the bottom off a bottle and screw it in and attached it to the radaitor. Keep the water level above the plenum and bleeding is very easy.