Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Houston; we have a problem!

Take off in the R34 is proving to be quite troublesome at the moment; especially when the ground is wet or has loose materials on it.

The Slip signal comes on indicating a loss of traction, the engine loses power and i basically go nowhere. Now this is happening way too much for comfort - up a hill, off the mark on a flat road, and even going up a wet driveway.

Is there anyway this can be fixed? Is there a way of restoring power to the engine even when there is slipping?

I understand that it is probably a feature installed to stop burnouts, but seriously i just want to get off the mark without someone running up my ass!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77530-r34-traction-control-slip-sensor/
Share on other sites

In the short term - Turn the TCS off :)

the TCS compares the speed of the rears to the spedd of the fronts, and if the rears are spinning faster - it thinks you're wheel spinning

HOWEVER

It's very sensitive and, like the GTR's ATTESA, it can sometimes sense if the rear tyre is nearly bald (compared to the front) which makes it look like the rear is spinning faster and BINGO - TCS!

Here's a quick list of the things I'd check

Rear Tyre wear

Tyre sizes (compare front to rears in this tool - http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html and make sure theres less than 0.5% difference)

Thanks everyone for your prompt advice... TCS switch will be experimented with ASAP!!!

As for new tyres? I think i'll stay, my tyres are @ 95% at the moment and they aren't bad...

Anyways, thanks again... will keep updates on the matter.

What toby19 said.  The switch should be to the left of the steering wheel near ur knees.  The power shouldn't cut at all if TCS is off but you will still see the SLIP light flash.

serious ????

Ive NEVER seen the slip light come on when TCS is off........

hmmm.......ill keep an eye on it next time...

OK played with TCS switch today and almost bloody lost control of the car... who woulda known that this tiny little switch is what keeps it so tame :(

I guess that either I'm a lead foot or I really don't know the car well enough yet.

The quest goes on...

No offence intended but yes you need to learn your car. I honestly think that skid pan and track days are the best thing for learning your car. You don't have to go so hard you kill it.

Once you get used to more power it's hard to imagine not being in full control with a stock turbo.

No offence intended but yes you need to learn your car. I honestly think that skid pan and track days are the best thing for learning your car. You don't have to go so hard you kill it.

Once you get used to more power it's hard to imagine not being in full control with a stock turbo.

Yeah no offence taken... i've had the car for 2 weeks all up so I'm not expecting any F1 championships yet!

Thanks for the advice though!

Wise words Bob.

I thought the car was a bit of a handful at first, but now it seems like you'd have to be doing something pretty stupid to lose control running the stock turbo.

Ok, so what do I need to do or where do I need to go in order to test this car out safely?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
×
×
  • Create New...