Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone. I’ve recently encountered an oil consumption problem. My engine is using something like 1 litre per 1000ks of oil. At first I figured it as a turbo problem, so I pulled of the AFM pipe and the dump pipe, as you can see in the pics there is oil around the compressor wheel and dried up carbon/oil? around the exhaust wheel. There is a trail of oil going through the intercooler pipes from the turbo and into the inlet pipe. I also pulled a spark plug out as one workshop suggested, as you can see in the pic it is very black. Has anyone encountered a similar problem or able to diagnose my problem? Does this sound solely turbo related or piston rings or something else?

Compressor.jpg

note oil on the compressor wheel and in the opening there

Exhaust.jpg

pic taken with a mirror, dry carbon/oil build up around wheel & wastegate area

Inlet_Pipe.jpg

This trail of oil continues through all intercooler piping

Throttle.jpg

note the small pool of oil before thottle opening

Plug1.jpg

note how dark end of spark plug is

Thanks people.

Sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77531-oil-consumption-problem/
Share on other sites

That explains why i could always smell your car so bad when behind it in cruises, just thought it was rich Nissan running, but obviously something more. Sorry to hear that mate, hopefully you get off without hemorrhaging cash too severely...

That explains why i could always smell your car so bad when behind it in cruises, just thought it was rich Nissan running, but obviously something more. Sorry to hear that mate, hopefully you get off without hemorrhaging cash too severely...

Cheers mate, yeah someone noted the excessive cloud of smoke that came out of the exhaust when boosting too, i think it was you?? would have been nice to get away from it without spending too much, but im up for a full engine rebuild now, got a quote, and organising it soon. ;)

the oil in the induction pipes is actually from the breather pipe that goes to the rocker cover. so yeah, its a blow-by problem. from what i understand if it was a turbo seal there would be oil all around the wastegate area next to the exhaust wheel there.

Dude, make sure you see the compression/leak down results yourself. My Silvia was using lots of oil, blowing bucketloads of smoke and it was the turbo seal that shat itself.

There was NO oil around the exhaust housing as there is simply too much heat and it gets burnt off.

Every turbo car i've seen including mine has some degree of oil in the pipes, its just a normal thing.

make sure you aren't getting the wool pulled over your eyes!

bazelines, thanks for your concern ;). I havent had the tests done yet, so far only my own findings and talking to a workshop. Will be done soon though. Some other factors that lead me to believe the engine is the source of the problem. ive got an oil catch-can that will fill up pretty rapidly when under higher speeds. i only get smoke from the exhaust at high RPM whereas someone i know who has a 180SX with new internals and a stuffed turbo, he gets exhaust smoke from 3500RPM onwards all the time. my car has just ticked over 160,000ks too.

160,000km's for an RB is bugger all.

Consider Rev210's RB26 that is over 200,000km's and running strong.

My old RB20DET that clocked 175,000km's with perfect compression, 110,000km's of those were done with me behind the wheel and 1bar of boost. ;)

For your car to do what its doing, some thing has gone wrong.

I would tend to suggest its either been idled consistantly and driven like a pansy for all its life hence glazed bores, or ran super richer all its life hence glazed bores or its simply and most likely leaned out and or detonated that has broke some thing or seriously damaged something.

Another consideration is valve stem seals. Does it blow smoke after idling around for a while?

One very good reason to get a dyno power run every 6 months or so.

Especially if its running that little bit more boost than stock. :D

160,000km's for an RB is bugger all.

 

Consider Rev210's RB26 that is over 200,000km's and running strong.

My old RB20DET that clocked 175,000km's with perfect compression, 110,000km's of those were done with me behind the wheel and 1bar of boost. :)

 

For your car to do what its doing, some thing has gone wrong.

I would tend to suggest its either been idled consistantly and driven like a pansy for all its life hence glazed bores, or ran super richer all its life hence glazed bores or its simply and most likely leaned out and or detonated that has broke some thing or seriously damaged something.

Another consideration is valve stem seals. Does it blow smoke after idling around for a while?

 

One very good reason to get a dyno power run every 6 months or so.

Especially if its running that little bit more boost than stock. ;)

Im pretty sure the odometer has been wound back on mine too, so it could be anything really. But i know what you are saying, the RB engine has a reputation for being bulletproof.

I think the leaning out/detonation would be the most likely scenario, but dont know. I've owned the car for a year, and only covered about 15,000ks in it.

Nope, no smoke when idleing, it only seems to blow smoke when taken to about 6KRPM, i see a big puff in my rearview mirror.

It was dynoed about a year ago by the previous owner, i havent dynoed it myself yet.

DYNO.jpg

Cheers,

Sam

You have mentioned catch can and oil in the pipes so I assume its set up legally and the can is running as an oil/air seperator?

Clean up all the inlet pipes and run the breathers to the can but dont plumb them back into the inlet, vent it to atmosphere.

Then take the car out for a spirited drive or two and then check the afm pipe. If it is filthy with oil again then obviously the turbo is sick. If its clean and the can is full then get a leak down test performed.

You have mentioned catch can and oil in the pipes so I assume its set up legally and the can is running as an oil/air seperator?

Yep, PCV is still intact, both rocker cover breathers go to one inlet on catch-can and the other(catch-can inlet) goes to AFM pipe breather.

Clean up all the inlet pipes and run the breathers to the can but dont plumb them back into the inlet, vent it to atmosphere.

Then take the car out for a spirited drive or two and then check the afm pipe. If it is filthy with oil again then obviously the turbo is sick. If its clean and the can is full then get a leak down test performed.

That sounds like a good idea, ill give it a go and see what happens.

Cheers,

Sam

My engine was consuming oil a fair bit before we pulled it down, ended up being Valve stem seals, which let oil leak down into the combustion chambers, carbon build up everywhere, i also had oil in my pipes but not puddles my turbo seems to be in good condition (no play) so maybe thats a consideration... I ended up getting my whole head rebuilt.. be good to see how it goes then!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...