Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have searched and can't find a thread regarding wheel bearings.

My questions are:

After you take the disks off are the bearings then exposed / able to be removed?

Are these a sealed unit requiring the whole assembly to be changed I.E cradle and bearing?

Rough cost of wheels bearings for r32 GTR?

I previously havn't had hands on experience maintaining my car but would like to start doing so and this appears to be next on the list, so all help is much appreciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77541-r32-gtr-wheel-bearings/
Share on other sites

I remember browsing through a CBC catalogue and seeing GTR bearings listed. Most newer hubs have sealed bearings that can't be serviced. If the bearings noisy it wants replacing, if not then its fine. Plenty of front wheel drives with similar setup out there have done a zillion km's with out the bearings needing to be touched. Cant see why skyline ones are any different.

Only a bit of info here for you....

Cost.......Gary Rogers Nissan, nunawading (vic). $140 per Front set (2 off). Midas, $150 to install. (pretty cheap considering they're pricks of a things to remove!!)

They're big, flat, heavy, non-conical, one bearing per car side things!!!

This was for my R33 non GTR!

One of the rear bearings needs replacing in my car (has some play in it)... they are a completely sealed unit, and yes you have to replace the whole lot. Mechanic got the assembly for me, was over $100 but sub $200 to my knowledge. Its being changed this week, will let you know of any tips/tricks for getting it done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See my post here If you put the Haltech in, you won't have to worry about any of that. And, in case you're worrying about my lack of credentials in doing your exact swap, I put a Neo in an R32. There has never been a stock boost solenoid near my car and the Neo's ECU has never cared. Nor should it, because it is electronically impossible for it to care.
    • That's 100% wrong. Did you wire in the boost sensor? If you did not, then that is 101% your answer. Neo ECUs do suck a bit.
    • Hello, I'm trying to make this thread basically the thread with all the answers to common questions regarding specifically the RB20 DE NEO + T engine, that comes in the R34. Answers will and only should be provided by those who have done this conversion or actually have some relevant real life experience please. Please feel free to ask questions in the comments if you have any so other members can answer. I feel like this thread is really needed, especially with more Americans buying (unknowingly going to regret it too) rb20 neo r34s. My first question being - What do you guys use for tuning? I have purchased a haltech elite 2500 Plug and play kit for the rb25det NEO because the ecu plug is the same, but I am unsure if any of the pins would need to be repined to match. Second question that I see asked very often - After this conversion, did you install the boost solenoid/ actuator? I see many people doing a + T setup on their rb20 NEOs while running stock RB25DET NEO ECUs with no tune. I am wondering how they are going about doing that and consistently abusing the car because many of these people have had these untuned setups running for a very long time. That was my original plan, but my engine cuts out at 5 psi of boost using the stock ecu with no tune and no boost solenoid/actuator.
    • interesting. ive read and heard otherwise over the past year. ive been doing this +t conversion on a rb20 neo using all oem rb25det neo parts including the ECU, and im having engine cut out issues when I hit around 5 psi of boost. Everywhere/everyone ive asked has told me its because I never wired in a boost solenoid/actuator to the ecu, so the ecu isn't getting the right signal once it hits 5 psi of boost, causing the engine to get shut off.
×
×
  • Create New...