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Hey I was just wondering if these power dips are normal for a standard computer?

I thought that it might be going into rich and retard mode. We tried setting it to 10 psi but the dips still remained, and we tried setting it at 13/14psi and it got 181rwkw.

Car is a 1996 R33 GTST

Mods:

3" Front pipe

GTR cat

3.5" HKS Cat-Back

K&N POD FILTER un-sheilded

GTR Intercooler

Bleed Valve set at 12psi

Do u think it may be getting too much airflow at 10psi aswell?

Any help would be appreciated

Thanks, Mike

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Yep the good old R33GTST standard ECU rich and retard strategy. If it's a manual then Power FC is the go, if it's an auto then SAFC, DFA or equivalent.

:(

PS; I wouldn't be running the standard turbo at 12 psi.

wow that looks like mine but mine was a bit smother up top with mods at the moment being

3" dump and high flow cat

hks super dragger cat back exhaust

K+N panel filter

bleed valve set to 9psi

putting the cooler on at the moment then going to get it dynoed at different boost levels to see what happens with the afr at the moment it is running WAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYY to rich i am not sure if my budget supports an pfc so i will prob just go with a SAFC and see how she gos.

actually thats a really good comparison graph. we both around the same peak but i make on avg 20rwkw more at each km/h interval. the stock dump pipe is my current restriction and getting that changed this week and gtr fuel pump going in

Hey buddy. My r33 is doing the exact same thing. Ive been told that if I get a power FC it will fix things as well, but for about $1600 fitted with tuning.. its a bit more than i wanted to spend. I've been told SAFC II should do a similar job too ($400+Tune), im currently looking at getting one. I heard PFC is better to get if you want to change turbos later on.

BTW these are my specs:

3" seperated dump/front pipe

3" highflow cat and stainless xforce exh

HKS Pod filter

turbosmart manual boost control (running about 12ish psi)

hybrid FMIC

so.. similar to yours really mods wise. Ive attached dyno sheet.. which is around the same 226RWHP is around 165kw@ wheels i think (correct me if im wrong)

dynosm.jpg

Thanks for all of ur replies, do u think that if i drop the boost the car will actually run better, considering it wont be rich and retarding itself?

Thanks, Mike

yes. it wont be flipping out as easily until you get the PowerFC :(

well if you drop the boost just under the stock ecu airflow cut then it wont keep going into rich and retard mode so youll make probably the same power, but the curve will be somewhat normal instead of a yoyo like arrangement.

Same thing happened to mine on the stock ecu.... i put the boost down from 12psi to 9psi and the car made plenty more power and was a lot smoother to drive...

As mentioned above, get a PFC, although i only achieved approx 10rwkw peak power gain the car as so much more midrange you will be very happy with it.

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