Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They are made by Quaife (England) under license for Trust.

You can buy parts from Trust Japan.

You will be buying lots of parts... :uh-huh:

Hey there. i'm currently rebuilding my trust dog box.

and would like to know. who the hell makes them?

is it hollinger??? as thats what i was lead to beleive!!

HELPPP

Guest Mashrock

the bit that makes me cry, is that the replacement box at the moment cant handle being shifted frm 2nd to 3rd and has broken also. shame shame shame!!

but i'm without a licence so i dont really give a fark at the moment.

just hope i can get this puppy fixed so someone or myslelf can use it

Least you got to drive yours! I picked up a stolen and recovered one. Idled nicely, started well. Yep I bought it. Drove it on the trailer, drive it off the trailer at home. Start putting the interior etc together before i register it. Then it turned to %$^t! My mate starts it and asks why my oil pressure guage doesn't work. Strip the bottom end. Previous rebuild had too much silicon on the sump and jammed the oil pump relief valve open! Been like it for a while cos the thrust bearing surface on crank is rooted. So i kinda lost motivation for fixing my GTR too!

Guest Mashrock
mashrock that is nasty stuff!!! how did you manage to do that? and what sort of power are we talking here?? makes me want to granny shift for life!!!!

its more response than power.

i have 34n1's, cams, 1.2 bar, etc.. porbably around 300-350kw?? i am not sure about figures. but my mate who has driven many of the skyline say its definatley one of the quickest hes driven.

DSC02570.jpg

this is the shaft stripped down. there be more photos in the galery

Guest Mashrock
Contact Simon at www.ppgearbox.com.au/ as I know they have gears to suit all different box's.

i can get it locally machined etc.

DSC02573.jpg

this is what i need which is the main shaft on the imput side..

its no problem to get made at all. but i am seeing what quaiffe have to say before i move ahead.

this is what i need which is the main shaft on the imput side..

That's a torsional failure of the shaft - probably fatigue. I'd need to see a photo of the fracture surface to be sure, better still I'd prefer to examine it directly.

Looking at the design and the fracture location, the failure is probably related to the design of the splines and their relationship to the bearing. Poor heat-treatment/core strength are possibilities as well. A proper failure analysis would tell the story.

Guest Mashrock
That's a torsional failure of the shaft - probably fatigue.  I'd need to see a photo of the fracture surface to be sure, better still I'd prefer to examine it directly.

Looking at the design and the fracture location, the failure is probably related to the design of the splines and their relationship to the bearing.   Poor heat-treatment/core strength are possibilities as well.   A proper failure analysis would tell the story.

have a look through my pictures. and there is a nice direct photo.

looks like poor heat treating to me..

but i am no expert.

but i also figured that the splines were definatley cut down way too far . they were atleast 1.5cm too far. and as you can see twisted and schnapppp!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
×
×
  • Create New...