Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Next night is only a couple of weeks away now. All relevant info found below:

When: 6pm - 10pm, Wednesday 13th July 2005

Where: Calder Park, Calder Freeway, Keilor

Cost: $80 per driver (includes one pit crew entry)

Spectators: $10

How to enter: All entries will be taken at the gate. Entries will be capped at 70. Those who arrive early will have priority.

Car Requirements: Cars must be of a safe and roadworthy standard. They must have working headlights and break lights. Fire extinguisher and roll cage are not essential but recommended. Seat belts must be worn and of a safe standard, harness’s permitted. All lose items must be removed from the car. It is recommended that you remove your front bumper to avoid damaging it.

Driver Requirements: Drivers must be licensed. Drivers must wear long sleeve top and long pants made of natural fibers e.g. cotton. Helmets must also be worn and are available for hire at Calder Park for $20.

Passengers: Passengers are strictly not permitted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77735-calder-drift-night-wed-13-july/
Share on other sites

how often do you have practice drift days?  are they always during the week? or are they on weekends?  I would love to get to the track but as i live 3 hours away from calder and i work 9-5 this is quite hard to do.

David

Hey David,

there on once a month on a wednesday night.

Just tell your boss that once a month on a wednesday, or for a once off, you want to leave early. At least by 3pm. Take your shit with you to work and leave straight away. Get to calder by 7, drift your tyres to the rim. Leave calder at 10, be home asleep by 1:30. Just don't break your car. Too easy mate..

For details from the horses mouth: www.fulllock.com

how often do you have practice drift days?  are they always during the week? or are they on weekends?  I would love to get to the track but as i live 3 hours away from calder and i work 9-5 this is quite hard to do.

David

where in SA do u live?

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm at the point of seriously starting a project to build and Arduino/mc (of some sort) based multigauge to go in the console where triple gauges normally sit. I have found a screen of the right dimensions. I would need to 3D print a bezel/housing to make it mount up pretty. That's doable. I would need to come up with interfacing circuitry for the EGT thermocouple. I'm sure there will be examples of that into Arduino out there somewhere. Ditto with characterising the output of the existing boost gauge's MAP sensor and the oil T gauge's thermistor. And then, because it is a screen, it can be controllable, so it can show more than the 3 gauges I currently have. So I can come up with a list of other things I want to be able to show on it that can be reasonably easily handled via an Arduino's inputs. I do not need this project. But the stepper gauges I'm using are giving me grief. It's time to come kicking and screaming into the 21st century.
    • Would you really prefer pillar gauges over something like this? https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-067010-haltech-ic-7-digital-dash-kit/ Or if you can spend more, this? https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-068000-haltech-uc-10/ I could write a thesis about how much better a modern dash is compared to a series of gauges. 
    • People think it's a waste of space, ugly, etc, generally associate "emissions control equipment" with "bad". These OBD1 vacuum-only systems I'm not a huge fan because I think they don't go far enough. They're wasting some of the fuel captured because they start purging as soon as the engine pulls vacuum. Later OBD1/OBD2 they put an electric purge valve on them to vent only when closed loop is active so the ECU will trim some fuel out. Even later OBD2 with zero evaporative loss the tank is 100% sealed from atmosphere until you run the engine or press the refuel door release. The tank has to take much higher vacuum/pressure spec but you never deal with saturating the charcoal canister and losing some fuel that way. The fuel also lasts as long as it would in a 100% airtight container which is nice when you're dealing with modern E10 pump gas.
    • If your luck is anything like mine, what happens is in the process of pulling hoses to get access to the one leak you create many more leaks because every o-ring was on the verge of failing and the strain of pulling it apart caused it to fail. Sometimes life is simple, sometimes you pay twice trying to save once. For the R33 you can still get most AC components from Nissan, I use nissan epc data or amayama to look up the part numbers and then search for the cheapest/most practical way of sourcing from there.
    • The dirty secret is there is nothing recyclable about the plastic bag or old plastic bottles either. Our local trash collection explicitly calls it out as hazmat in both cases. Oil-soaked rags + paper towels too. Oil-soaked cardboard is also not recyclable. The most common case of oil-soaked paper like that is pizza boxes, which are explicitly compost-only from the oil. To my knowledge hazmat oil contaminated plastic the only solution is either landfill or "thermal recycling". Most plastics in my experience there is slow permeation of the oil it's holding into the container so it's very challenging to get it 100% clean.
×
×
  • Create New...