Suggested Maintainence Schedule/Routine for GTR

[Robbo]

Just bought a GTR this month and I'm about to do the 100k service on it this weekend.

I was wondering if anyone has the suggested service checklist for it? Want to know what should be done for this service and also the recomended oils and quantities as well.

I'll be doing it myself so I wanted to get a check list, to make sure I get everything.

Currently I'm planning on:

* Replace engine oil filter and oil

* Replace gearbox/transfer case oil

* Replace differential oils

* Replace fuel filter

* Replace air filters

* Replace spark plugs

* Replace timing belt, idler and tensioner

* Replace water pump

* Replace coolant

* Replace brake fluid

* Replace clutch fluid

* Inspect/lubricate steering components (wheel bearings, ball joints, tierods, boots, etc)

* Inspect/lubricate drive line (drive shafts, yokes, unis, boots, etc)

* Inspect suspension (shocks, bushes)

* Inspect all hoses

* Inspect/adjust accessory drive belts alt/ac/ps/wp/etc

* Inspect brake pads & rotors.

The other thing I was interested in, was the water pump. Same pump as RB30E VL Commodores or what? I was led to believe the N1 GTR's had a different pump, but apart from that the standard GTRs had the same pump as VLs. Is this correct?

Cheers.

Robbo.

[Robbo]

Thanks for all your help

Some may find the following prices interesting.

Gates racing timing belt.........$93

NTN Timing belt tensioner......$60

Powermax waterpump...........$65 (Same part # as VL according to supplier)

Nulon coolant conc. 5L..........$30

Mobile 1 engine oil................$50

Motul Gear oil (gearbox & difs)

4.9L+1.5L+1L = 7.5L............$100

K&N oil filter........................$20

Ryco fuel filter.....................$12

NGK platinum plugs...............$82

Nulon Oil flush.....................$8

Nulon coolant flush..............$5

Nulon Xtreme brakefluid........$12

Bosch w/p belt...................$19

Bosch a/c belt....................$14

Bosch p/s belt....................$20

Genuine thermostat..............$50 (looks different to VL but possibly interchangeable)

515 Gasket compound..........$10

Total $650 ish... All these prices were at trade or mates rates.

And I'll be installing/fitting it all this weekend. So wish me luck!

[gun32gtr]

shit thats a big list,glad im up for it in 20000kms?good luck with it all

[SteveL]

The other thing I was interested in, was the water pump.  Same pump as RB30E VL Commodores or what?  I was led to believe the N1 GTR's had a different pump, but apart from that the standard GTRs had the same pump as VLs. Is this correct?

R32 GTR w/pump is not the same as RB30 w/pump (skyline or VL commode). Some will try to tell you otherwise, but I've got both types and compared them face-to-face....there's a single 6mm bolt at the top that's in a different location in each case. I've read here of people using the RB30 pump and just leaving the bolt out.....personally I wouldn't risk it.

The downside is that the genuine R32 GTR pump is $300+ and to answer you're next Q....R33/R34 GTR pumps don't fit R32 GTR as there are design differences which also mean these pumps will leak. However it is possible to modify an R33 w/pump to fit an R32, but requires some welding and machining. R33 GTR w/pump costs around $140 (trade) so if you know someone that is handy with a TIG welder and has a mill then you can save some $$$.....that is what I did.

[gtrGhosTDoGG11]

Thats some cheap brake fluid, get some more better stuff while your doing everything. Depends if your doing spirited braking i guess.

[Robbo]

Haven't done the brake/clutch fluid swaps yet. might think about that.

I've already bought the VL water pump, I may as well compare them both. If I'm comfortable with leaving the bolt out I'll go with it. If not, looks like I'll be going with an R33 GTR one, and modifiying it.

I ended up getting the Cam belt Idler as well. Then I found a slight weap from the inlet cam seal. So I'm going to get a set of genuine cam seals and a front crank seal too.

[lwells]

Gates racing timing belt.........$93

Consider just buying the OEM one. All of these aftermarket ones with their X or Y times greater strength are fine, but given you should be replacing the belt after the next 100,000KM I am not sure its worth it.

Motul Gear oil (gearbox & difs)

4.9L+1.5L+1L = 7.5L............$100

I assume those a different types of gear oil for the box and diffs? Also think about the transfer case.

NGK platinum plugs...............$82

Think about just running some coppers. Yes you have to change them more often, but for $2 per spark plug, who cares?

Nulon Oil flush.....................$8

I have never heard good things about flushing products. Your milage may vary. IMHO you are better off buying an extra 2L of engine oil, half drop the oil, top up and run it through, then drop the lot and refill.

Nulon coolant flush..............$5

As per above. Consider completely removing the radiator and having it professionally flushed. I posted up a tutorial for that awhile ago.

Nulon Xtreme brakefluid........$12

As others said, get something better. Motul DOT5.1 seems quite popular.

Lucien.

[wishaw]

$605 seems like alot just for the parts for a 100000km service. What is recommended in the the manual for a 100000km service?

[Robbo]

I used the same oil for Gearbox, and Diffs. Is this going to be a problem?

Using Type D auto fluid for transfer case.

[SteveL]

I used the same oil for Gearbox, and Diffs.  Is this going to be a problem?

Not a good idea AFAIC....ordinary gear oil for the gearbox, but diffs need a hypoid gear oil. If you've used ordinary gear oil in the diff change it to a hypoid GL5 type ASAP.....short term use probably won't do any damage. OTOH if you've used hypoid gear oil in the gearbox no damage will be done, but synchros may not work correctly - again, change ASAP.

Edit: I've realised you might mean the same brand of oil, not necessarily the same type.....if that's the case, my apologies

[lwells]

Not a good idea AFAIC....ordinary gear oil for the gearbox, but diffs need a hypoid gear oil.   If you've used ordinary gear oil in the diff change it to a hypoid GL5 type ASAP.....short term use probably won't do any damage.    OTOH if you've used hypoid gear oil in the gearbox no damage will be done, but synchros may not work correctly - again, change ASAP.

:werd:

Lucien.

[Robbo]

I'll find out more about what I bought and try and rectify the problem. Luckily nothing has been refilled/changed yet.

Thanks for picking up on the problem. I'm sure it would run fine for the time being with whatever oil, but when I'm paying $100 for 7L... I want it exact.

Cheers, I'll keep you posted.

[SteveL]

I'll find out more about what I bought and try and rectify the problem.   Luckily nothing has been refilled/changed yet.

The other thing to remember is that the rear diff on a GTR is a mechanical LSD and you need to use a hypoid gear oil suitable for LSD diffs. OTOH the front diff does not have an LSD centre so an ordinary hypoid gear oil can be used in that. Of course I'm assuming your car has the factory setup, but it's fairly rare to find an LSD fitted to the front diff of a GTR. If your not sure, it's perfectly safe to use an LSD spec diff oil in an open centre diff so just do that (plus it simplifies the types of oil you end up buying......)

[lwells]

SteveL: The rear diff doesn't require oil with any special friction additives. Any of the standard hypoid GL5 diff oils is fine (rather than those LSD specific oils) IIRC.

LW.

[SteveL]

SteveL:  The rear diff doesn't require oil with any special friction additives.  Any of the standard hypoid GL5 diff oils is fine (rather than those LSD specific oils) IIRC.

I tend to use oils spec'd for mechanical LSD's. I suppose those are special additives but I don't look at them in the same way as stuff like Nulon, which are just unnecessary and a waste of $$ IMHO.

[Robbo]

Heres a pic Taken from page 404/804 from the "gtr_r32_service_manual.pdf"

Looks like they do specify LSD type oil

[Robbo]

Contacted the guy selling the Motul oil.. he double checked it and it is rated as meeting both GL4 and GL5 specs.. so I'll be using it.

He said that he's used it in his R33 GTR gearbox and diffs and also in his SR180 with a mechanical LSD.

[lwells]

I tend to use oils spec'd for mechanical LSD's.    I suppose those are special additives but I don't look at them in the same way as stuff like Nulon, which are just unnecessary and a waste of $$ IMHO.

If you look at some of the differential oils -- like Castrol SAF-XA -- they say they are fine for LSD applications: obviously if the oil manufacturer doesn't recommend its use in an LSD, don't use it .

What I am saying is you don't need to get the ones with friction modifiers.

Lucien.

[Godzilla32]

Lucien i regard myself as i fairly confident person in the way of mechanics. Im 24 now and im assuming your 23 as thats wat it says on your details but damn mate you know your shit! Smart guy, thats for sure. How did you have this much experience and still be so young? Ive been working on cars since a very young age. Got my first car at 14, but you have more knowledge on alot stuff than me!

Anyway before your head grows too big and you cant get thru doorways no more i'll stop!

While im here how do you knwo if you need to replace the ancillary blets ..Mine arent too bad looking but they are all off so i was thinking to swap em over. One looks a tad worse than the other 2 ...how should i decide?

[Robbo]

With those belts. I saw cracks in one. and other had a chunk missing from it. the third looks reasonable but I thought why not replace the lot.

Lucien the guru might have a better way