Jump to content
SAU Community

R30/R31 Front control arms .

discopotato03
 Share

Recommended Posts

Boof Mentor

Boof

Posted
Posted
Its been said that a couple of cable ties around the rear damper pistons will move up to show squat height when under maximum acceleration or power load . This is where you need neutral camber and toe to put the most rubber on the road ie largest contact patch . Once this is known I suppose enough bags of cement in the boot at aignment time should re create it .

The only real issue i can see with trying to get static +ve camber for maximum traction is the issue of lack of grip whilst cornering...If you go to far +ve whilst static you'll loose alot of rear end grip, so its a case of you've gotta comprimise between the two...Mines that stiff in the rear that camber doesn't change, its set -ve (not sure how much) but i don't really have traction issues at this stage yet either...Time will tell when i wind some boost into it and start making some power

Link to comment
Share on other sites
DR30RULES Enthusiast

DR30RULES

Posted
Posted
Hehehe Thats why I am looking into a R31 crossmemeber with rack and pinion steering and making engine mounts from there. 

Can anyone else tell me if a r31 cross member fits??? (or else it will be all custom) I want rack and peanut damn it. It's not like everything else in my car isnt custom it just would be nice if something fitted good for a change might have to go to u-pull-it for a measure.  :chairshot

Apparently late model 280zx were rack and pinion (for 8 months!!) and the x-member and rack can be used in R30 without to much drama.

Can anyone confirm this?.

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lithium
      Boost level and torque curve

      By Lithium · Posted

      There is a LOT of stuff that can be done, it all depends on how much time and money you want to spend on doing in.  Not all ECUs will be able to do it, and the more control you need the more time and knowledge needs to be put into making it work.  If you're willing to spend the time and money and have the right hardware and skills involved there's a lot that can be done. 
    • thx78
      Boost level and torque curve

      By thx78 · Posted

      I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Lithium
      Boost level and torque curve

      By Lithium · Posted

      Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
    • thx78
      Boost level and torque curve

      By thx78 · Posted

      so you can decrease or increase the boost depending on the diet as you wish?     by acting on the wastegate?
    • Lithium
      Boost level and torque curve

      By Lithium · Posted

      That's torque and power, it's all from a single run.  The boost curve is "held back" from it's peak target in the 3500rpm to 5000rpm range from memory, so it ramps hard to something like 18psi then climbs more progressively to 23psi nearer 5000rpm.   It makes the torque (and power) ramp more "natural" and less hard on parts and traction, it doesn't feel artificially held back.   
×
×
  • Create New...