Jump to content
SAU Community

R30/R31 Front control arms .

discopotato03
 Share

Recommended Posts

Boof Mentor

Boof

Posted
Posted
Its been said that a couple of cable ties around the rear damper pistons will move up to show squat height when under maximum acceleration or power load . This is where you need neutral camber and toe to put the most rubber on the road ie largest contact patch . Once this is known I suppose enough bags of cement in the boot at aignment time should re create it .

The only real issue i can see with trying to get static +ve camber for maximum traction is the issue of lack of grip whilst cornering...If you go to far +ve whilst static you'll loose alot of rear end grip, so its a case of you've gotta comprimise between the two...Mines that stiff in the rear that camber doesn't change, its set -ve (not sure how much) but i don't really have traction issues at this stage yet either...Time will tell when i wind some boost into it and start making some power

DR30RULES Enthusiast

DR30RULES

Posted
Posted
Hehehe Thats why I am looking into a R31 crossmemeber with rack and pinion steering and making engine mounts from there. 

Can anyone else tell me if a r31 cross member fits??? (or else it will be all custom) I want rack and peanut damn it. It's not like everything else in my car isnt custom it just would be nice if something fitted good for a change might have to go to u-pull-it for a measure.  :chairshot

Apparently late model 280zx were rack and pinion (for 8 months!!) and the x-member and rack can be used in R30 without to much drama.

Can anyone confirm this?.

Cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • tsuokun
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By tsuokun · Posted

      Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...