FMIC - where to begin

[Josh]

Im looking at getting a front mount for my R32 GTSt(600X300X76), was wondering what you guys think is the best or 'better' way to mount it and run the piping. Ive seen some people recommend running it back through the original intercooler piping, this seems simple enough BUT the piping length concerns me - will this decrease turbo response? laggy :warning: dont really want that much piping...

On the other hand Ive seen the method where the piping is run over the radiator, this seems to use less piping HOWEVER . . all the pics ive seen require the cutting of a large hole.. is this bad for the car, to have a large hole, in what is ( i think - correct me if im wrong) the chassis... makes it less rigid etc.... illegal?

Also what would stock boost be on a GTSt and what can the standard ceramic turbo take - providing it has a suitable intercooler

I await your opinions...

[paulr33]

Hi John,

This has been covered many many times, even a guide or two in the tutorial section, just try a search and youll find plently.

> Ive seen some people recommend running it back through the original intercooler piping, this seems simple enough BUT the piping length concerns me - will this decrease turbo response?

the piping sholdnt make that much of a difference, choose a massive core or a larger core than is needed will add "throttle response" lag. when you open the throttle you have to pressurize the whole core before it gets to the plenum, so a 650x300x76 on a stock gtst is going to add some more lag to throttle response. if you do fit a core like that then do some other changes to keep the response the same. make the exhaust less restrictive, fit cold air intake, ecu change or something like that. dont just add the cooler and go hey i made more power and theres no lag difference, cos that wont most likely happen. what will most likely happen is a bit more lag when your floor it and it in theory wont make any more power. if you do say exhaust change at the same time, you should keep the same stock throttle response

> On the other hand Ive seen the method where the piping is run over the radiator, this seems to use less piping HOWEVER . . all the pics ive seen require the cutting of a large hole

This depends on how its installed and how the piping is run. There would be dozens of pics of r32 FMIC install's on the forums and even google images. i wouldnt recommend cutting the frame or structure/reinforcement bar / areas but a hole below the wiper water tank should be ok and has been done by many before

> Also what would stock boost be on a GTSt and what can the standard ceramic turbo take

The stock boost on the r32 I think is around 9psi. No more than 12psi before you shorten the life and add extra heat. Heat causes the exhaust wheel to fail, not boost. Heat generated from running lots of boost and not adequate systems will make excess heat and kill the exhaust wheel

[paulr33]

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&highlight=fmic

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&highlight=fmic

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&highlight=fmic

the last one is for 600x300x76 on r32

[Josh]

Yeh the car has a 3" exhaust with a kakimoto end muffler as well as another muffler before that... and an HKS pod, Along with putting the cooler in, I wanna ditch the second muffler, replace with 3" link pipe and have a less restricted exhaust.

Will that help with keeping the response after adding the cooler?

[paulr33]

yes it will, try fitting a 3" front/dump combo pipe at the same, should give it a bit more "zing" when coming on boost and spool up bit earlier. under for sale, check out top 3 threads by BATMBL, split 3" dump is best

[Josh]

Okay, Ive got my intercooler mounted, what would you guys recommend for the piping material? Some say SS, others say mild steel, galvanised mild steel, copper, PVC... what do you guys think.

Also the piping method that goes through the panel under the battery, is that illegal?

cheers

[Roy]

If you have to holesaw a hole then technically you shoudl re-inforce it the penetration. This could be as easy as welding a collar/ring to it etc etc. Will you ever get pickedup for it...i highly doubt it but i know of someone that got done for it recently:(

Dont galvanise it, it will look sh1t, no need and hot dip galvanising isnt cheap. Best compromise all round is mild steel, just make sure its ceramic coated (about $100) or is painted:)

[Josh]

Ok cool, So the ceramic coating on the mild steel i assume is to protect against rust? Another point - how big do you suggest the piping be.. 2.5in 3in? The inlet/outlet on the cooler is 3in.

What kind of option do you have if you get stickered for the hole? get it passed by an engineer? cus you can't really replace it...

[predator]

you could always weld a steel sheet over the top if you really had to clear a defect.. that area is pretty thin metal anyhow .. you can almost stab a screwdriver through it.

In my old car it got inspected a few times, passed roadworthies, etc without a problem with the hole there. Don't think they even noticed though..

mild steel will get surface rust in a few days after moisture unless it is coated in someway (once upon a time i sanded back my old hks pipes then soon found out it was mild steel and had to paint it all up again :Oops: ).. high temp paint will surfice if you don't want to get technical with more heat resistance

[Josh]

Nice, okay how much does this mild steel coated in ceramic crap generally cost? Im guessing I should just go to a zorst shop to get some..

How much boost would you guys estimate i can run SAFELY with this cooler and standard turbo combo, I know it also depends on other mods too, but how much roughly... what do you guys run?

[Roy]

If you are scared your turbo will let go then dont run a boost controller. With a good exhaust, IC and filter you will be running 0.85bar and if the turbo lets go then its an age thing, not a running too much boost thing.

I suggest staying away from exhaust shops when doing intercooler pipes, they are very good at what they do , no doubt, but if you want a good job then go to a boilermaker / steel fabrication place. Sure buy the bends form an exhaust place and cut and fit it up yourself, but get the pros to weld it. This approach with installign it yourself you can get out of jail for about $300

For a thrid party to do the piping plus fitting then id say about $400-700 including silicon joiners, clamps etc etc. Then about $100 for ceramic coating or $20 for painting. It can be done for less, but often the bought kits are great value.

[predator]

small tip as well Josh.. if you want high quality silicone joiners, hose clamps, and the likes check out a diesel supplies place (that sell things for trucks and the like).. prices are about 1/2 to 1/3 what most performance places charge for high quality silicone hosing in 3", 2 1/2", etc, etc.

I got *all* of the hosing and clamps required for my piping for like $40.. for bracing brackets and things, bunnings has a pretty good collection of different ones that you can hammer, bend, drill, etc into what you need.

[Josh]

small tip as well Josh.. if you want high quality silicone joiners, hose clamps, and the likes check out a diesel supplies place (that sell things for trucks and the like).. prices are about 1/2 to 1/3 what most performance places charge for high quality silicone hosing in 3", 2 1/2", etc, etc.  

I got *all* of the hosing and clamps required for my piping for like $40.. for bracing brackets and things, bunnings has a pretty good collection of different ones that you can hammer, bend, drill, etc into what you need.

Hahaha funny you mention that predator... I work for a diesel engine company, so getting the silicon hoses and clamps aren't an issue, thank fark for staff discount! Will be heading to bunnings soon to get lower support bars for my cooler. Just wish we sold piping or even intercoolers at work!!