Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the clutch thing has been brought up quite a bit and someting "Organic" has been recommended heaps. Do a search for clutch or 'organic', might give u some ideas. Lots of opinions and stuff on different clutches.

Got a nine button ceramic-ferride clutch and pressure plate fitted (2500lb clamp). All up fitted it cost me $800 (about $535 for clutch and p/plate before gst). It is quite nice to drive, not too instant on the takeup. Their website is www.xclutch.com.au . It bites quite nicely, I am currently putting down over 260rwhp (260 is where the power curve flatlined on the dyno with the old clutch) and it grips quite well. It might be worth having a look at twin plates as well. Although I have never driven one, the guys I have spoken to that have state that take up is very similar to stock. Twin plates seem to come up from time to time on the for sale section of this forum for around $8-900 up, for a second hand item which seems like a real bargain.

EDIT: oops, just noticed the website is under construction, their phone is 1800 258824 - and they do a few different types of clutch, not just button.

Thanks for the help Steve, do you know if they have a melbourne based shop? My car is only producing about 230rwkW, so that should be plenty... If they don't have a melbourne based shop does anyone know of a good clutch shop in melb?? Thanks

Edit:

OK, so i checked out some threads, and it seems that a Daikin Exedy Organic is the way to go, and ICE can do them in melbourne. A couple of questions:

1. where is ICE?

2. are there different clutch ratings for the Exedy? I've heard that they can be fully installed for around 800 bucks, but have seen some that the clutch kit alone costs double that.

Please help ;)

Ronin,

Mine was slipping and so i am having it replaced it with a R33 clutch plate with an R32GTR pressure plate, a good combination for 400+ bhp or so i am reliably informed and cost remarkably little. The car when i pick it up in January will be around 350bhp at the wheels and the clutch shoud be well up for it and more

Will find out on the 10th Jan:)

Paul

7 Dissik Street, Cheltenham,

Victoria, Australia, 3192.

Ph: 03 9512 7591

Heard lots of good things about these guys. go to www.whereis.com.au if u want to find out exactly how to get there from where ever u're coming from.

yeah, that's the one i keep seeing, Daikin Exedy Organic. I don't have one, hell, i don't even have a skyline, so i can't tell ya anything about them except a lot of ppl seem to recommend them.

cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Half anticipating the next question then: I have two magnets stuck in my oil pan. What should I do? 
    • If it's magnetic what is stopping you from using a magnet on a thin wire from fishing it out?
    • Those 2 solenoids in that assembly I mention, are the PWM solenoids for torque converter lock-up clutch & EPC (line pressure control) ~ when most folks hear of 'solenoid failure', the tendency is to think electrical failure...but fact of the matter is, especially wrt the EPC solenoid (which is moving/running all the time), you can have an electrically 'good' solenoid, that's absolutely broken/worn out mechanically inside...ie; valve plunger return spring rubbing against spring retainer plate, lowering preload pressure.. ...and the solenoid armature extension limit spring wafer with bad wear/broken off petals... ...and if there's ever been any metal flying about, damage to the valve plunger end itself... ...the stuff one never really sees, unless you go the whole 10yards trying to answer the question "why is my line pressure screwy, but TCU isn't flagging any EPC solenoid fault?"...and carefully dissect the solenoid. Worst (and most probable) scenario is when the plate spring petals break off, they get held by the magnetic flux, get mashed up by the armature into little bits, which end up in the space between the armature & shading core bore, and things get stuck or randomly jam up, and your line pressure goes flat and doesn't change...and the TCU never sees it, as it doesn't actively monitor LP... ..then it gets into insidious land, if you end up with lower than expected line pressure...lets say high clutch..and the lower pressure causes it to slip ~ when I say 'slip', think say 2000rpm on the drive plates, and 1800rpm on the driven plates, because the slip is making them under-rotate by 200rpm ; you get all the usual nasties like heat and band/clutch wear, but even if it's only 20rpm slip the same thing happens...and... you'll hardly ever pick this up driving the thing with the torque converter active as it effectively masks these sorts of slippages that are line pressure related ...(the newer TCUs can detect clutch slip rate)...just  FYI as it were...  
    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
    • Hey guys, so Golebys has good prices on Bosch injectors, and also sell an adaptor to go from 1/2 length injector to standard with the Nissan 10.5mm top seal.  Does anyone know if that adaptor is to suit the 14mm or 11mm injector tops?  And re. The bottom seal, to suit my standard RB20 intake, would I be right in saying I can just slip the 14mm square section O ring over the bottom of the new injector and done? Thanks in advance guy, Cheers, Rowdy
×
×
  • Create New...