Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm not really bias I think... the rexy does feel gutless at low rpm. Go to your subaru dealer and check for yourself...

I'd be the first to admit if it had better power all round..

Obviously the grip is great but compared to the R33 with a few minor mods the rexy felt like a slower car

  • Replies 214
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Dush - your wang is big, don't get me wrong.. but my wang is bigger.

Ben - what do you consider low rpm?

If both cars red line at 7000rpm then mid rev range is 3500rpm.

so I assume by low rpm, you are talking about 2000rpm.

then YES. The 2.5L with 9:1 compression and relatively small ball bearing turbo charger has more get up and go when compared to the 2L in the wrx.

but this thread is not about which car gets to 3000rpm quicker.

it is which car is faster in a race.

most legal races start from a standing start, and end 402m later.

will the more torque at 2000rpm help you there?

or are you a Great Western Raceway kinda guy?

in my expeirences i have beat a my03 wrx in my r33 gtst. he had me of the mark but then as expected i plled him back and won .

this car was stock and all mine has is a boost controller running 10 pound.

they will allways get you of the line (awd) but if you can drive and launch your skyline well they shouldnt get too far away

JUST BUY A SKYLINE

Hey Ben, i think they actually got that shitty vn commie into the 11's!

As for lag. my rex with the standard turbo and tb exhaust could reach 17 psi by 2500 rpm, is that laggy?

My god! They succeeded in polishing the turd.

PHATGTR-My old MY00 WRX with the stock TD04 and a full 3" MSR HiTech exhaust would make 1.1 bar by 2600rpm in higher gears. Fatz (NSW Forums) has driven it and could comment for an unbiased opinion. Then again he'd probably just say, "It's a bloody Hyundai piece of crap" so maybe his opinion isn't really unbiased either. :)

(yet another) Ben

  • 2 weeks later...

I owned a MY98 for 2 years and have just purchased a stock SII R33 and as much as it hurts me to say it, the WRX was much more impressive when it comes to performance. However thats probably the only more impressive thing about the WRX, what is not impressive is the drivetrain, they should have made it out of glass it would have been stronger.

I guess what i am trying to say is while your mates WRX is in the shop with the gearbox or clutch out (depends on what week it is) you will be thinking what a great decision you have made.

Gary

I think the it would be a close race stock for stock.

I raced a R33 gtst he had same mods as me really like front mount, exhaust, fuel pump etc cause i sorta know him.....i beat him from 50kph rolling start to 180kph and i got a RB20DET in my silvia at 10psi and i short shifted each gear due to my misfire problem.

But we have a mate with WRX manual and that hoots.

- Luke

it all depends on the driver too, i raced some random who was in a rex vs my 33, and he couldnt get traction off the line, then he couldnt catch me so no point comparing high performance cars without considering low performance drivers

I owned a MY98 for 2 years and have just purchased a stock SII R33 and as much as it hurts me to say it, the WRX was much more impressive when it comes to performance. However thats probably the only more impressive thing about the WRX, what is not impressive is the drivetrain, they should have made it out of glass it would have been stronger.

I guess what i am trying to say is while your mates WRX is in the shop with the gearbox or clutch out (depends on what week it is) you will be thinking what a great decision you have made.

Gary

I still don't know what makes people think the subaru drivetrains are so weak.

I've had 3 wrxs, all had a fair bit of power, and copped a hiding and never had a gearbox problem.

I had an MY96 which has the weakest gearbox of them all. Took it to the drags a few times and was good enough for low 13s...never had a gearbox problem.

Also had an MY00 STI with a bit over 200awkw. Took it to the drags lots of times. Had a best time of 12.6 (with no traction) and never ran slower than 12.9. Never had a gearbox problem in that either.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...