Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

he is entitled to his opinion just let him go really i mean is it that big of a deal???

Ignorance isn't a point of view.

There's the various other stuff like traction and gearing that other people have gotten into. Subarus tend to run very short gearboxes, because of their traction advantage, so while they'll lose top-end they'll make it all in the lower end. The R33 is more of a GT car, so they'll run wider spaced gears.

As for not being able to spin up the back of an R33 GTS-t, I hope he's talking about an auto one. I've only ever driven a manual, and if he's talking about them I must be some kind of driving ace to do what I did in it ;)

I'm assuming the shift quality in both is about the same. You can lose quite a bit of time trying to muscle a recalcitant gearbox, and once your engine load drops and you lose boost......

I'm not saying the GTS-t isn't faster, since there are factors advantageous to the GTS-t he's ignored too, but not knowing a whole bunch of stuff on either side doesn't perfectly cancel each other out and make the little he does know accurate.

  • Replies 214
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I like the lights a lot (they're very angular and aggressive) but that grille is just wrong. Unlike the last car, where they got it the other way around. Maybe the stylists from Subaru just don't compare notes?

If they could have the current grille with the new lights, they might be on to a winner.

Stock r33s dyno at ALOT more than stock WRXs do as well, so where the hell did you get the WRX will be producing more power? Also WRXs loose more power due to the awd driveline too...

A WRX will run high 14 second 1/4 if its near new. Older ones are slower too.

They only run these times due to a 1.6 60' time!!!! On the go everybody knows they are fairly gutless unless you spend some bucks on the engine to get it going.

R33s will produce far more power and be far quicker, only disadvantge in the straightline racing aspect is the rwd vs awd of course.

I never seen a stock rex do a 1.6 60 foot as a matter of fact very few hotted up manual rexes will do that and the ones that do 1.6 60 footers will do 11 sec 1/4 miles .

A stock rex 99-00 model ( old shape 1250 kg ) will do 13.9 -14 flat 1/4 mile .

A stock 01 ( bugeye , the slowest rex ) will do 14.2 1/4 mile with 1.9960 ft .

01 rexes weigh 1350 kg and 01 sti's 1430kg

I just want to say thanks to everyone who have replied. I wealth of information and experience. I think I will go the R33 simply cause I have ahad a rwd car my whole life (Current Holden 1970 Ht Wagon, 1977 Corolla which I did 32 fishies in a row on a dirt road. So much fun)

From what I have read, all I need to get is one with a exhaust and FMIC and this is instant performance. I am thinking about $20,000. Maybe even a series 2.

Thanks again and When I get one I will let you all know the results!

Bring it On!!!!!!!!!

Timbo!!

Firstly, i'm not missing the 4WD point, becuase i don't believe a stock R33 has enough power to have uncontrollable wheel spin. I left that out, cause that is an opinion not a fact.

The original question was about wanting to beat a mates 168KW vehicle, he wants to use a 187kw vehicle to do it. I think thats a pretty good start wouldn't you. If they are going to actually sit on the strip and race, might have to practise launches a bit, but on the street an extra 19kw will be useful. Anyone who wants to argue that a car with 11% power handicap will "SMOKE YOU" has got to think about that a few more times when they have the same kerb weight.

You need to take a trip to your local drag strip dude, and watch the way rex's launch, as opposed to R33 GTSt's. You may then get a better understanding of why the extra 19kw really makes f*ck all difference. What does make a difference, is the way the two cars put the power to the ground.

Firstly, i'm not missing the 4WD point, becuase i don't believe a stock R33 has enough power to have uncontrollable wheel spin. I left that out, cause that is an opinion not a fact.

The original question was about wanting to beat a mates 168KW vehicle, he wants to use a 187kw vehicle to do it. I think thats a pretty good start wouldn't you. If they are going to actually sit on the strip and race, might have to practise launches a bit, but on the street an extra 19kw will be useful. Anyone who wants to argue that a car with 11% power handicap will "SMOKE YOU" has got to think about that a few more times when they have the same kerb weight.

How come then a r34 gtt with same power as a gtr ( both have 206 kw ) and at least 100-150 kg weight advantage doesn't smoke the gtrs ?

Or do you think that gtt's are quicker than gtrs ?

There is more to how quick a car goes than just peak power .

I can assure you a stock wrx will beat a stock r33 gts anytime , anyplace anywhere by a good margin , as long as both cars are totaly stock as they come from the factory .

I disagree that a stock WRX would win, wud be close over the 1/4 but the GTST wud win, on the freeway it would be easy for the Skyline.

You know the GT-T figures and GTR figures arent correct, plus check the torque figures of both engines, there a fair difference in those lol The only reason its stated at 206kw is the Jap limit, we all know the GTR was much higher powered than that!

like i said, i can prove that the wrx can rip at gtst, but then again, someone else can rip me in a drag..

my car was completely STOCK, so its the uglyiest mofo when i first got it, and i manage to kill a skyline which when i come to think of it had an exhaust.

so there you go :(

it all depends, all cars act differently, someone might or will be able to beat me in a gtst as well, and im willing to take that in.

but in the end who cares, we are all car enthurisit so dont give this forum a bad look by dissing etc.. other cars

and im not syaing its all of you, just a minority :)

anyways, i own a wrx, BUT R34 GTR ROCCCCKKKS! LMAO

:)

ahahah.. **looks down in shame* i own a wrx, but i have sti running gears, so turbo injector, all the goods and some after market stuff, so its come a long way but now i can keep up with an sti

hahehae

:(

*happy happy joy joy*

but if i ever get the $$$, R32 GTR, OR R33 GTR. OR R34 GTR

aheahea, i love them cars so much!

I disagree that a stock WRX would win, wud be close over the 1/4 but the GTST wud win, on the freeway it would be easy for the Skyline.

You know the GT-T figures and GTR figures arent correct, plus check the torque figures of both engines, there a fair difference in those lol The only reason its stated at 206kw is the Jap limit, we all know the GTR was much higher powered than that!

I have owned several rexes stockers and not so stockers , have taken heaps to the strip and i know exacly what times they can do .

I still have a 02 sti as well as a r34 gtr and have owned other skylines before including a 33 gtr .

I can tell you that all rexes will beat r33 gtst's anywhere , they are quicker ( i dont care what has higher peak power ) and on the strip they are quicker by a good margin , but remember they must be both stockers totaly .

Cant say ive been in a stock R33 GTST, but ive been in several cars racing WRXs that are standard and they are so gutless on the run its not funny... ive seen quoted times at 15.01 for the Pre 2000 models, which is pretty shit. Ive seen heaps at the track run mid 14s but these all have atleast an exhaust system!

I just assumed a stock Skyline wouldnt be THAT slow, sure off the line it will loose a good 0.1-0.4 in the 60' time but it should be able to pull that back.

Anyway no real point in arguing, im sayin due to engine power/torque as well as awd the WRX will jump away and be pulled back, close at the 1/4, not close on the freeway.

END Rant :(

Cant say ive been in a stock R33 GTST, but ive been in several cars racing WRXs that are standard and they are so gutless on the run its not funny... ive seen quoted times at 15.01 for the Pre 2000 models, which is pretty shit. Ive seen heaps at the track run mid 14s but these all have atleast an exhaust system!

I just assumed a stock Skyline wouldnt be THAT slow, sure off the line it will loose a good 0.1-0.4 in the 60' time but it should be able to pull that back.

Anyway no real point in arguing, im sayin due to engine power/torque as well as awd the WRX will jump away and be pulled back, close at the 1/4, not close on the freeway.

END Rant :(

argh.. lol.. thr 15.01 is so not ture, or the guy cant drive the car.. but yeh, rrmber also, it depends on the driver

my car right now is running 12.5 seconds right now so cheerio! :)

aehaeha

Okay, this argument needs CLARIFICATION:

IIIIIIIIINnnnnnnnnnnnnn the BLUE Corner we have:

MY99 WRX NON-STI - 3" Exhaust, Boost, FMIC

IIiiiiiiiiiiinnnnnnnnnnnn the WHITE Corner we have:

'98 R33 GTS-T - 3" Exhaust, Boost, FMIC

WHICH CAR WILLL WIN IT IN THE BATTLE TO END ALL BATTLES!

*cough* the r32 gtr will win.. *cough* (j/k)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Meanwhile, 20+ years ago, I pulled out the 105mm hole saw and went straight down through the inner guard in front of the airbox to get my stormwater pipe cold air intake in. Right behind the two stock holes for the intercooler pipes. Those have no reinforcement (apart from a couple of robust pieces of steel pipe through them!). I feel that the Australian vehicle standards crews put way too much emphasis on "maintaining the crash performance" of cars and not enough consideration of "any crash is a new and wonderful experiment with a random selection of parameters and you will never be able to tell if an extra 80mm hole through some sheet metal caused a significant difference...but if you close your eyes and squint at the whole structure, engage your engineering brain and have a good think about it, you'd have to expect that it would do jack all."
    • You guys are focussing on the wrong part of this post and have headed off on an irrelevant tangent!  Clearly I'm not going to put my most prized physical possession (well it will be once I'm finished it...) on a piece of shit contraption that might fail and crush me or my car!  At no point was that even implied I was trying to buy a butchered P.O.S that some shonky clown had thrown together with a gasless MIG....  Either way I would love to see the build quality of a rotisserie that has failed.  Actually I'd love to see a photo of one that has failed full stop.  Google fails to deliver.  Never happened?? I'll either make one that won't fail or will buy one that wouldn't fail! End Post.....
    • Yeah, if you can't breathe for more than about 2 minutes, you're cooked.
    • Well, all the power should be getting dissipated across the starter motor. Therefore, ideally, the voltage drop across the earth lead should be convincingly close to zero. Certainly you'd want it to be only a volt or so at max, because otherwise that volt doesn't turn up at the starter to do what is required. A car can probably survive a bad enough earth to crank and start with only 9V or so at the starter motor, maybe even a bit less. But you're seeing only 8V at the battery terminals when cranking, so there can't even be that much available over at the starter, which simply won't do. I would have thought that you couldn't pull enough current (with a healthy starter) to make the battery drop to 8V locally. But I was ignoring the possibility that the starter is in fact crook. If it has shorted windings (or maybe the solenoid is borked and shorting to earth) then I guess it could pull a stack of current and not even look like wanting to turn over. So follow the other boys' reccos too. Because they are just as likely at this point.  
    • Depending where the whole gets drilled, and what country/state you're talking about, quite likely not.   Under ole vehicle mod rules in NSW, VSI06 allowed for drilling of holes in "non structural" areas. So you could drill a hole through the inner guard, and not need engineering. You couldn't drill over seams, and it was advised to add extra reinforcing around the hole, as well as something to protect from sharp edges.   Again, it's all about finding the documentation for where the mod is to be done, AND then being able to explain the situation, with the documentation as to why you don't need engineering, with a positive attitude, to any one of the likes eg, police, vehicle inspector, etc.
×
×
  • Create New...