Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

After a long and extensive search i have finally found out that i have a twin Garrett GT2560R setup on my GTR!!

I thought they were N1's and then Group A's, but now i can definitely confirm that they are GT2560's!

Wanted to find out who is running this setup and what sort of power people have been making??

Are they the same as the larger R34 N1's??

Any info would be great!!

Cheers,

Francisco

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78172-gtr-turbos-garrett-gt2560r/
Share on other sites

Was going to get my original turbos rebuilt....but am having a set of these GT 2560's fitted instead around the 11th July I will post dyno results but am not looking for Huge HP figures, so dont expect to be overly impressed.

I was told they are very similar to N1's.

Although I beleive pnblight is running these turbos and has made 530rwHP.....

i took 1 million photos of them when my engine was out and couldnt match the numbers & position of the marks on the front covers with anything, until i saw Spool Imports photos!!

Then Checked the photes with other suppliers pics & It all matches up, i couldnt figure out how group A's would contiunue to spin for 20secs after i switch the engine off!! I knew they were ball bearing, but thats it

Pete , those are the terbs we can get for a good price but they have none in stock and looks around 3 months before they will have some more.

Have our guys trying to convince Garrett to speed up the wait as with the new pricing , these are very good value for money.

Cheers

Ken

Guys

I have R34 N1s on my R32 GTR and the Nissan part number is : 14411-AA403

Mine have the .42 compressor housing tho ( YES they DO Exist – and Nissan will confirm it if you give them this part number)

AFAIK these are series one R34 N1s and they came off an R34-GTR V-spec II

I'm getting 300+awkw ATM @ 1.2bar – but I NEED bigger injectors

HtH

Scott

hey guys just on the same topic i was wondering how these turbos that u r talking about (same as pnblight) how do they compare to hks 2530s in max power and response?

i hear people saying 500hp at wheels is too much for these turbos, but only pnblights freak gtr :( has got the higher figure.

im trying to decide between these turbos, hks 2530s, single t04z, single garret GT35/40R for my stock capacity rb26 wanting response as most importance and capable of abit over 500hp at wheels with suitable other parts which i have already :)

any info/comments most welcome

thanks guys

Brad

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
    • I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
×
×
  • Create New...