Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Of course it's a problem!

Try a search - this problem happens nearly every week.

It never fails to amaze me the negativity of some of the people in these forums. Its too much trouble to assist someone with an answer but its not too much trouble to send a DO A SEARCH post.

FYI I did a search and could find f**k all otherwise I wouldnt have posted at all .

Maybe Im not as computer orientated as others on the forum but as I said I did a search and found nothing to help me

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78211-4wd-light/#findComment-1432671
Share on other sites

I apologise for jumping on you, but it is a common question. I'll admit that the leaves a bit to be desired in its ability to home in on the key words.

But it never fails to amaze me that someone would question if a warning light indicated a problem. It's not so much a problem that you shouldn't drive the car (like an oil warning light), but it is an indication that the car won't behave as it is supposed to.

The usual answer is that you need to check the fluid level in the reservoir located in the rear RH corner of the boot (behind the side panel). Check the level with ignition "ON". But there may be some other cause that I have "no-eyed deer" how to diagnose and fix.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78211-4wd-light/#findComment-1432740
Share on other sites

you can extract a code from the ecu by putting it in diagnostic mode.....you do this by earthing a wire on the diagnositic connector under the dash.....then the light will flash a certain amount of times....i put my money on a low voltage code....this is corrected by fitting a new battery......if you want to clear out the ecu memory,take the battery terminal off overnight

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78211-4wd-light/#findComment-1433574
Share on other sites

you can extract a code from the ecu by putting it in diagnostic mode.....you do this by earthing a wire on the diagnositic connector under the dash.....then the light will flash a certain amount of times....i put my money on a low voltage code....this is corrected by fitting a new battery......if you want to clear out the ecu memory,take the battery terminal off overnight

Funny you should say that because I recharged the battery about a week ago because it went flat because the car isnt a daily driver.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78211-4wd-light/#findComment-1436881
Share on other sites

Most common problems have been covered above....if the 4wd light is on the ATESSA computer will be flashing the error code for you. Details of each error code are in the 32 gtr manual, not sure if they are identical on the 32.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78211-4wd-light/#findComment-1437873
Share on other sites

Make sure the car is charging for one. Im sure if the car sits for weeks on end, without being started - it would only be a matter of time before a new battery get to the same level as your current battery.

Best thing I have seen to fix this is a 900milliamp trickle charger from k-mart, just leave it hooked up whilst your not running it. Will keep your battery happy and also will keep your alarm happy.

Cheers

Sumo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78211-4wd-light/#findComment-1438312
Share on other sites

Funny you should say that because I recharged the battery about a week ago because it went flat because the car isnt a daily driver.

Oh for shame. GTR not the DD?

You must be busy Al as we haven't seen you about, and you haven't posted much.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78211-4wd-light/#findComment-1438353
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
    • Nah, not really responsible for that little fiasco, but I'm still pissed at myself for writing off my 86, or when I reversed my VX into a pole just before selling it, but, meh, 5hit happens to stuff, all it takes is a slight distraction, and life is full of distractions, and "dooh" moments   
×
×
  • Create New...