Jump to content
SAU Community

"shockies"


Recommended Posts

I (and many other SAUers) own and recommend Bilstein shocks.

www.bilstein.com.au

You could also go for other well-known brands like HKS, TEIN and Cusco.

Note with any overseas made shocks, you should pair them with Aussie springs (like King Springs) to suit our crap quality roads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I (and many other SAUers) own and recommend Bilstein shocks.

www.bilstein.com.au

You could also go for other well-known brands like HKS, TEIN and Cusco.

Note with any overseas made shocks, you should pair them with Aussie springs (like King Springs) to suit our crap quality roads.

So with the bilstein do they come adjustable, i have adjustable tanabe at the front

and need the rear to be replaced

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the interest of balance, koni's are every bit as good as bilsteins:

http://www.toperformance.com.au/index2.html

I've used both, road and race, car and motorcycle.   Properly set up they are equal.    Personally I'd recommend looking at Bilstein's or Koni's over the 'name brand' Japanese suspension.

Sorry SteveL, but they are not. I use Konis on lots of cars, I like them very much. But not on Skylines, since they are not sold in Europe, Koni use Japanese recommended valving. This simply does not work as well as the Bilstein valving in our conditions. I am not the only one with this opinion, check around the guys that have tried both.

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry SteveL, but they are not.  I use Konis on lots of cars, I like them very much.  But not on Skylines, since they are not sold in Europe, Koni use Japanese recommended valving.  This simply does not work as well as the Bilstein valving in our conditions.  I am not the only one with this opinion, check around the guys that have tried both.

You assume that I haven't....I've found that in virtually every case there's been other explanations (eg poor spring choice). Indeed I've found the same with Bilsteins. As I said.....'properly set up......'.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • There is a LOT of stuff that can be done, it all depends on how much time and money you want to spend on doing in.  Not all ECUs will be able to do it, and the more control you need the more time and knowledge needs to be put into making it work.  If you're willing to spend the time and money and have the right hardware and skills involved there's a lot that can be done. 
    • I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
    • so you can decrease or increase the boost depending on the diet as you wish?     by acting on the wastegate?
    • That's torque and power, it's all from a single run.  The boost curve is "held back" from it's peak target in the 3500rpm to 5000rpm range from memory, so it ramps hard to something like 18psi then climbs more progressively to 23psi nearer 5000rpm.   It makes the torque (and power) ramp more "natural" and less hard on parts and traction, it doesn't feel artificially held back.   
×
×
  • Create New...