Jump to content
SAU Community

Removing insanely tight o2 sensor


NewKleer
 Share

Recommended Posts

I got a new o2 sensor recently for my r31 skyline (rb20det nics redtop). Anyway to cut to the chase, we cracked a clean break down the side of the 21mm (or whatever) o2 sensor socket in trying to remove the o2 sensor...first time id ever seen one break

so how would i remove the sensor (preferably not taking the dump pipe off) if its on so tight it breaks sockets?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you cracked the socket?? never seen that happen before, must have been some pretty weak metal. Usually the thread will just sheer.

Did you use a breaker bar?? You *were* going anticlockwise right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yer i cracked the socket - o2 sensor sockets are a bit weaker than usual to start with due to the slit in them for o2 sensor wires. used a breaker bar, anti clockwise. this was a pretty heavy duty socket too, hence my surprise

any chance having the engine running (heating exhaust) helps at all?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i had the same problem with mine last nite (didnt break the socket, just rounded the nut a bit), socked it in crc and half hour later came back, instead of undoing it i tried doing it up a little first (slightest bit) and then hit the dump pipe with a small hammer near the sensor, sparayed a bit more crc and another half hour later came back again and it came out. althow i wont be able to use the nut again as it folded in whilst i was undoing it (didnt matter as i welded a new one in my new dump).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

when i was taking my o2 sensor off i snapped off the bit before the nut, the ceramic part. then put on some wd40 and ran the car for a minute or so, removed my turbo heat sheild and used a rachet to get it off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
I can't remember what the stuff is called, but it's sold in Autobarn. Ask them, they'll know. It's this thing you apply to it to dissolve the rust and lubricate the thread.

Are you thinking of Penetrene?

NewKleer: Out of interest, where did you buy the socket?

Lucien.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my brother had the socket...im not sure - it was a black one if that helps. im guessing the other socket cracked as it was the socket with the gap for the o2 sensor wires, and hence is fundamentally weaker due to that gap.

i also have to turn the car around before removing it, thus the exhaust would have been lukewarm. seemed to come out with too much trouble with the rost off/warm/better socket combined

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a LOT of stuff that can be done, it all depends on how much time and money you want to spend on doing in.  Not all ECUs will be able to do it, and the more control you need the more time and knowledge needs to be put into making it work.  If you're willing to spend the time and money and have the right hardware and skills involved there's a lot that can be done. 
    • I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
    • so you can decrease or increase the boost depending on the diet as you wish?     by acting on the wastegate?
    • That's torque and power, it's all from a single run.  The boost curve is "held back" from it's peak target in the 3500rpm to 5000rpm range from memory, so it ramps hard to something like 18psi then climbs more progressively to 23psi nearer 5000rpm.   It makes the torque (and power) ramp more "natural" and less hard on parts and traction, it doesn't feel artificially held back.   
×
×
  • Create New...