Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got a new o2 sensor recently for my r31 skyline (rb20det nics redtop). Anyway to cut to the chase, we cracked a clean break down the side of the 21mm (or whatever) o2 sensor socket in trying to remove the o2 sensor...first time id ever seen one break

so how would i remove the sensor (preferably not taking the dump pipe off) if its on so tight it breaks sockets?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78260-removing-insanely-tight-o2-sensor/
Share on other sites

yer i cracked the socket - o2 sensor sockets are a bit weaker than usual to start with due to the slit in them for o2 sensor wires. used a breaker bar, anti clockwise. this was a pretty heavy duty socket too, hence my surprise

any chance having the engine running (heating exhaust) helps at all?

i had the same problem with mine last nite (didnt break the socket, just rounded the nut a bit), socked it in crc and half hour later came back, instead of undoing it i tried doing it up a little first (slightest bit) and then hit the dump pipe with a small hammer near the sensor, sparayed a bit more crc and another half hour later came back again and it came out. althow i wont be able to use the nut again as it folded in whilst i was undoing it (didnt matter as i welded a new one in my new dump).

when i was taking my o2 sensor off i snapped off the bit before the nut, the ceramic part. then put on some wd40 and ran the car for a minute or so, removed my turbo heat sheild and used a rachet to get it off.

  • 4 weeks later...
I can't remember what the stuff is called, but it's sold in Autobarn. Ask them, they'll know. It's this thing you apply to it to dissolve the rust and lubricate the thread.

Are you thinking of Penetrene?

NewKleer: Out of interest, where did you buy the socket?

Lucien.

my brother had the socket...im not sure - it was a black one if that helps. im guessing the other socket cracked as it was the socket with the gap for the o2 sensor wires, and hence is fundamentally weaker due to that gap.

i also have to turn the car around before removing it, thus the exhaust would have been lukewarm. seemed to come out with too much trouble with the rost off/warm/better socket combined

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It can't be some stupidly proprietary video signal coming out of it that only Nissan's can understand. Surely you can just find some generic camera to stuff in there and use hot melt glue/blu-tac/gaffer tape to hold it in place if need be?
    • Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
×
×
  • Create New...