Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gotta machine rb26 head to fit anything 10.2 mm lift or bigger.

Tomei drop the base circle of the cam shaft so that overall diameter of the camshaft including the lobe is with in the head. The diameter goes from 32 to 30mm, the solid lifters that they supply are larger so that it contacts the smaller shaft. This way you can get more lift without machining the head. Of course I am welcome to being corrected if there is anyone here with TOMEI procams with high lift..

Yorik - I know of a local car running exact same setup as me but with 10.8mm lift 260 Procams, not sure on power output, but these cams obviously need modification/machining of the head to accomodate...

Be interesting to see your results....

The car I'm talking about here is ph1's old car, sold to a guy in Melb, which had 346rwkws... But that was tuned around 3 years ago, Ben (Racepace) has learnt a lot more since then!!!!

Great work Jack :)

Missing the DECA weekend you could say was worth it indeed.

Heard rumours of some good numbers ;)

PS: thanks for actually getting evidence of what i was saying about shootout ;)

makes some figures debateable when people swear by em

Very nice power figure, i have seen a similar setup here is sydney with the T517's making 360 kw, simple setups are the best.

I am also keen on finding out about the cam timing as i already have a set of poncams installed but they are still set at 0. since the car is going back on the dyno soon it would be some handy info ;)

Great work Jack  :)

Missing the DECA weekend you could say was worth it indeed.

Heard rumours of some good numbers ;)

PS: thanks for actually getting evidence of what i was saying about shootout  :rant:

makes some figures debateable when people swear by em

Wasent you drive upto WA last year meant to put all the WA dyno reading to rest??? bleh.gif

Nice work jack.

What speed were you hitting on the front straight at last sandown day???

So these brought the car on boost quicker did they(quicker spoo; time, less lag)?? Or did they just bring on power quicker while the car was on boost? Looking for cams to allow for boost to start earlier in the rev range, dont like lag much....

So these brought the car on boost quicker did they(quicker spoo; time, less lag)?? Or did they just bring on power quicker while the car was on boost? Looking for cams to allow for boost to start earlier in the rev range, dont like lag much....

I haven't really checked exactly when I get full boost now, but it used to be around 5000rpm. But I did see full boost at about 4800rpm in the quick drive after the dyno tune, but it may be earlier, its a bit hard to look at the boost gauge, rev tacho and road at the same time when giving it stick in 2nd gear on the streets... Might have to check it out next time on the track where I can try in the higher gears....

Also Ben (Racepace) said they came on slightly earlier according to the old graph, which I'm still trying to find...

True, your car would have broken down after a few 100 km's. :D

Jack

Next time out at Sandown you should be in the low 1.20's coz u got the power, brakes, suspension and cheater tyres.

The car's definetly got the potential, its just the driver needs more experience!!!

Interloper - that was the point in showing the different modes, so in future when somebody puts up a dyno graph you can have a more accurate idea of what power it's really pushing...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...