Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my baby's almost out of compliance, after 7 months of looking at it in my garage, i finally decided to get it complied...

it comes out next week and i need to get a front bar...i dont really car what it looks like, as long as its a complete bar (dont need the support behind it) it's just nasty right now...so if anyones got any front bar for a cef you want to get rid of cheaply, let me know

mypic61.JPG

any help would be appreciated.

nissaner, what did you do with the that front bar they changed? if you still got it, can i have it?

nissaner, what did you do with the that front bar they changed? if you still got it, can i have it?

i didn't collect it from brb... they might've thrown it away

edit : i'm going there on wednesday so i will ask if they still have it

thanks john...

i might be selling the car soon...it's getting ridiculously expensive...i've just done a list of everything i've put in since it came, and it's out of control...look at the list....

-----------------------------------------------------------

1989 model

88000km metalic gunmetal paint

R33 rb26dett engine 56000km

N1 turbos

Nismo 550cc injectors

Nismo fuel pump

(new) Fidenza (u.s.a made) adjustable cam gears ($250)

(new) ARC fmic ($300)

(new) Xtreme semi puck hd clutch ($600)

(new) X-force stainless 3" cat ($199)

(new) 2.5"x2 into 3.5" GTR front pipes ($300)

(new) Apexi RS 3.5" catback exhaust ($300)

(new) Apexi power intake pods ($200)

(new) Apexi power fc + controller ($1,000)

(new) Apexi RSM (blue screen) ($240)

(new) Apexi pen type tt ($120)

(new) Omori boost gauge ($100)

(new) Omori oil press gauge ($115)

(new) Omori water temp gauge ($115)

(new) Omori oil temp gauge ($115)

(new) Defi D-gauge 4.5" shift light tacho ($360)

(new) HKS hypermax II coilovers ($1,500)

(new) Tein caster rods ($290)

(new) Cusco rear camber arms ($250)

(new) Cusco rear caster arms ($250)

(new) Cusco rear toe arms ($250)

(new) braided brake lines ($250)

(new) GTR front brakes (5stud) ($550)

(new) AVS model 6 rims 17x9 +20 ($1,000)

(new) 2x HKS ssqv ($600)

(new) Clutch slave cylinder ($97)

(new) Veilside Gear knob ($40)

Cusco front strut brace

R33GTST rear brakes (5stud)

Aftermaket lsd (dont know brand, but locks like nuts)

Flared guards front and rear

N1 head lights

late model tail lights

-------------------------

new parts total ($8,741)

car cost ($14,500)

compliance ($1,500)

-------------------------

total cost ($23,741)

work needed:

1. Front bar

2. Registration

parts with (new) next to it were added by me after the car came into the country.

Hey love your car man looks tough. Wow that's probably how much my car has cost me just to keep running with replacement parts and fixing ... to think I could have had a decent car with so much more power :P

Hope you get to keep it though :)

if i knew it was going to be this much i should have just kept the 180 or even better, buy an s15...such is the "joy" of owning something different...

a lesson for the kids...listen to your parents when they tell you to get a newer car ;)

Based on that list you put up, most of the additions weren't necessary. Looks like they were things you 'wanted' rather than 'needed'

Can't blame the car for that

:zzz: Ass.

Are you saying that those things listed are a necessity? Not many of them are.

Chances are Sky80 would have spent a similar amount doing the same mods no matter what the car was.

Anyway, it isn't an argument, just an observation

Was just a bit suprised you'd say that with all your interior bling ;)

Nah seriously though I was actually thinking about this the other day and thought the reality is we don't even NEED our cars.. Why not just drive a prius? So I was trying to make the point need/want balance is subjective...

I *need* my cefiro.. I *want* a rb30.

Some kid in Africa wants a plastic bucket but needs a big leaf (to scoop water with).. i dono it's all perspective.

it's true most werent "needed", i began buying parts for it before it even came in the country, i could very well drive it w/o most of that stuff...but i thought about it and the conclusion was that, im not gonig to be playing with cars for much longer...getting a bit old, plus, i've had way too many imports (nissans only)...and it's a four door, so there's nothing to stop me getting married and having kids in it :P

but as luck will have it, im possibly trading the ceff for a laurel + $$ but wont know for sure until i see it in person...but the pitures look promising....plus i need the money, seeing as i aint gots no job anymore...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
×
×
  • Create New...