Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

changed the gearbox and dif oil with motul in my r32 gts4

wow what can i say it has made a great big difference. The gears shift smoothly and the diff is running quiet?

motul oil gets a thumbs up from me

if anyone needs advice for changing oil post here or pm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey

I am goign to be changing my gear and diff oil pretty soon, there are so many people with different opinions, I want a good quality oil for both my box and diff though not being a rediculous price.

Whats recommended for a LSD Pro mechanical diff? and whats the pricing for the oils you have chosen? and any pricing on the different brands?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I will be changing the oil today in my transmission.

but I will go by the gear shifter,

I guess I'll need to put 4 liters right?

BTW: Motul Gear 300 75W90 I'll tell you all how it went ;)

I'll try to take a few snap shots if I can manage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Deftinatly go in with the gear shifter, so easy ;) Make sure you have some circlip pliers (the inner diameter squeeze-together type) cause youll need them.

Last time I changed my box oil I used Castrol VMX80 with a tube of that Nulon additive that is supposed to work wonders. I made the mistake of putting in the Nulon first before the oil. Its the consistency of hemmaroid cream and I think its all sitting stuck to the botom and sides of the casing and not getting mixed in with the oil itself. Anyways despite all the hype my box still feels crap-tastic ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a LOT of stuff that can be done, it all depends on how much time and money you want to spend on doing in.  Not all ECUs will be able to do it, and the more control you need the more time and knowledge needs to be put into making it work.  If you're willing to spend the time and money and have the right hardware and skills involved there's a lot that can be done. 
    • I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
    • so you can decrease or increase the boost depending on the diet as you wish?     by acting on the wastegate?
    • That's torque and power, it's all from a single run.  The boost curve is "held back" from it's peak target in the 3500rpm to 5000rpm range from memory, so it ramps hard to something like 18psi then climbs more progressively to 23psi nearer 5000rpm.   It makes the torque (and power) ramp more "natural" and less hard on parts and traction, it doesn't feel artificially held back.   
×
×
  • Create New...