Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1995 R33 Nissan Skyline GT-R for sale. Just under 100,000kms on the clock, immaculate condition throughout a well looked after car.

Factory features:

- Rare Midnight Purple colour

- Big Brembo brakes + ABS.

- 4 Wheel Drive and 4 Wheel Steer

- Power steering, electric windows

- Climate Control

- Original 17" forged alloy wheels

Aftermarket features:

- 2x 320 HP Nismo ball bearing RS580 turbos. (need rebuild, details further)

- 2x HKS adjustable cam gears

- 2x K&N air cleaners

- 2x 80mm air flow meters.

- 3” Dump pipes, 2 ½” down pipes, 3” cat back system.

- Apexi PowerFC full engine management unit (dyno tuned)

- Huge 600x300x100 polished intercooler

- Big single plate brass button clutch

- GReddy Type-S blow-off valve

- 6x 700 CC SARD injectors

- 700 HP bosch intank fuel pump

- Boost controller

- GReddy oil catch can

- Clear NISMO indicators

Interior features:

- NISMO 320k/hr tacho and center guages.

- Apexi EL Boost guage mounted on GReddy A-Pillar

- GReddy shift knob

- GReddy turbo timer

- Factory Nissan GTR floor matts front and rear

- Retrimmed quality leather around gearstick and handbrake.

- Audio system consists of MP3 headunit and Alpine 6 ½” splits in front

Over $20,000 in parts, labour and tuning.

Other notes:

- Regulary serviced every 5000kms with MOTUL oils and genuine filters.

- Major service done which includes new GReddy timing belt, oil and water pump, all accessory belts and fluids.

- New oil in all drivetrain including gearbox and diffs.

- Engine has good compression in all cylinders.

Turbo details:

One turbo has a recent noisy bearing, I bought the turbos from a fresh rebuild from a workshop in Sydney (Precision), unfortunatly the workshop has since been found to do a lot of “less then standard” rebuilds

Got one quote for $300/$400 per turbo to replace bearings so I will take off a FURTHER $1000 from the -agreed- sale price to cover the cost of a rebuild or a new turbo setup.

Was going to rebuild them myself but figured I would leave it up to the new owner, you could change to slightly bigger turbos again, maybe even a big single conversion, everything else you need to run the turbo setup at a high level is already on the car, and you'll have another $1000 for whatever you decide.

Power details:

Last dyno tune car made a lazy 234kw (315hp) at all 4 wheels (approx 280rwkw) on 1 bar boost (14psi)

Would now be around 260kw at all 4 wheels (over 300rwkw) still with a conservative tune and boost level of 1.2bar (18psi)

A stock GTR will make around 180kw at all 4. This car has all the parts now to push it further if the new owner desired.

Any questions serious buyers please phone Brett on 0413 382 678

Mon-fri (4pm till 9pm)

Weekends anytime.

No time wasters please, NO TEST DRIVES.

5.jpg

8.jpg

Full set of pics can be found at:

http://members.optusnet.com.au/bjrose/sale/

Now $45,000 ono.

Also available! my prestige plates "SAY BYE". Black on gold, slimline front, -never- fitted to any car. Was going to keep these but if anyone wants them i'll sell them at very cheap price for plates like this, $2500.

plates.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78527-fs-r33-gtr-modded/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

not for another skyline. Maybe a s15 spec R.

price is now $38k neg.

Please see the car sales ad for full details.

http://carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!c...r...rch_distance=25

Ive had my mechanic pull the turbos off and inspect them and he said he couldnt see anything wrong, put it all back together and now everything seems fine, but it couldnt have been the turbo problem he first thought as he said they would sieze up within a week but went for months, at times the noise wasnt even there.

so the turbos are all good, any professional inspection is welcome. If any -serious- buyers want I can take them for a drive to confirm it.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha thanks everyone, I'll take everyone's suggestions into consideration. If I do eventually choose a car ill post it here update on the mods I do.
    • I found the ingredients at larger amounts from a Coffee Shop. 1kg Citric Acid for €8.50 500g Baking Soda for €2.50 I tried it out tonight distilled water (I got from my ACs) and dish soap. It does get bubbly with dish soap. In just two hours the hanger has improved significantly and rubbing against any remaining rust seems to flake it off. I'm going to leave it a little bit longer and see how it goes. I have read that someone even used this solution in an ultrasonic cleaner to clean a seized water pump which brought it back to life.
    • If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
    • Haha luckily we don't have emissions, inspections, or any laws against power adders here. They only thing they somewhat keep an eye out for are ridiculously loud exhausts. 
    • Just wanted to pop in an update on my setup. The CD swap has been great, I love the mazworks housing for the overall simplicity. I ended up sealing my trans tunnel with a thin sheet of aluminum reused some of the holes on the trans tunnel, and laid some window sealing EPS foam around the edges. Works great, really quieted things down and sealed up the car.  As for the power comment. Right now I am also running about 650whp. with the way the bell housing is attached to the face of the transmission I have zero doubts it would be fine, mainly because the input shaft and main shaft bearings are seated into the bell housing adapter. This means the load is NOT on the bolts to maintain the power, rather into he casing of the bell housing; Yes the bolts are doing some work there, but with both shafts locked in zero worries.  End of the day, the Mazworks solution is the easiest and safest. no need to take your trans to a shop to get milled perfectly, it fits with minimal clearancing, and you can use all your existing clutch and flywheel.  Driving wise the CD has been great compared to the big box, I'll probably swap my final drive at some point. The serial 9 shifter is gooooood, my only qualm is how tight it is, it takes a fair bit to get use to, 5th and 6th are a bit eh/hard to find at times, but maybe I need re-adjusting, and I think my clutch master is very tired and needs a rebuild. 
×
×
  • Create New...