Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey car is a 96 r33 s2, car has been fine until last night. I was driving along and was in third gear, i started to accelerate, the car got to about 3500rpm then cut-out for a second. It was like a big jerk. Then further up the road i tried again and the same thing happen.

Today i took it for a drive and it was fine, but tonight when i went to accelerate it happend again. Im starting to think it might have something to do with the colder weather at night?

I also thought it might be boost cut. It is currently set at 12psi. The only thing i have changed lately was the boost controller. I went from a no name bleed valve, to a turbotech ($22 one from the forums). I think it may be getting just under 13psi sometimes (when its colder).

Anyways just wondering if anyone could help out.

P.S sorry if this post is hard to read, but im not in a good writing mood right now

Thanks, Mike

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78546-r33-problems-fuel-cut/
Share on other sites

Don't change your afm unless you change your ECU - it will stuff things up. The AFM isn't maxed out but the reading the ECU is getting is saying this is too much airflow (most likely), hence richening and retarding the timing which feels like a fuel cut.

Turn the boost down to 10psi. If it stil happens look to coil packs for issues.

check to make sure the boost controller does not have a blockage. This would cause the turbo to spike extremely quickly as the wastegate is not opening or not opening enough. Your boost cut should be somewhere around 20psi but the turbo will hit that twice as fast as your guage will read it so it might only say 13 or 14 psi but the turbo has already hit 20psi. It is unlikely to be your AFM as my stock rb20 afm is putting through 250 rwkw and only reaches maximum voltage when my injectors hit 100% duty cycle.

  • 7 months later...

sorry to dig up an old thread....

but im currently getting these exact symptims from my car

only running fm cooler, pod and 3" cat back and cars at 9.5psi

doesnt haven all the time.. but its like a big jerk when it does happen

would that be a boost cut... at 9.5psi? :rolleyes:

-Ruffels

  • 1 year later...
sorry to dig up an old thread....

but im currently getting these exact symptims from my car

only running fm cooler, pod and 3" cat back and cars at 9.5psi

doesnt haven all the time.. but its like a big jerk when it does happen

would that be a boost cut... at 9.5psi? huh.gif

-Ruffels

Im also getting the exact same problem. It seems to be worse at night and is definatly worse on higher boost, the higher the boost, the worse it is generally.

Has anyone found out what is actually causing this yet?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't they cool down technically when you're sitting at a set of lights? 
    • The circuit if not a resistor divider is using an opamp to deliver a specific current normally. By maintaining the current as resistance changes, the voltage does too. Add to that, thermistors are normally non linear too,which can make creating a function impossible. Most uses of a thermistor people will utilise a lookup table to get the corresponding temperature.
    • On a scale of 1 to 10, how shit are the RE003's? (10 being ultra mega shit) Was hoping they'd be alright for a non-daily driven R32 that might get driven to Charnwood Macca's in the dry once a month, and maybe the odd hoon up and down the hills that pass for mountains in sunny Canberra.  Bob Jane currently running a "Buy 4 Get 1 Free" deal on RE003s and my brain can't comprehend anything else being value for money
    • Yeah, they look good. I should try to fit them on mine. But being a GTSt, the guard shape probably doesn't suit properly.
    • Nah, it's not a simple voltage divider. I'm not enough of an electronics guru to know how they make these circuits work. If I had a better idea of how the ECU's temperature measuring is done, I could then actually do as you want, which is turn that resistance chart into a voltage chart. But my approach has not worked. What I did was interpolate the sensor ohms values for the temperatures you listed, as you did not have any of them on a temperature ending in zero or 5. These are: °C ECU V sensor ohms (interpolated) 58 2.68 11.85 57 2.7 11.89 56 2.74 11.93 54 2.8 12.01 49 3.06 12.208 47 3.18 12.284 43 3.37 12.42 I then assumed 5V supply to the resister and calculated the voltage drop across the sensor for each of those, which is just 5 - the above voltages, and then calculated the current that must be flowing through the sensor. So you get:             Values in sensor °C ECU V sensor ohms (interpolated) Supply volts Volt drop Current 58 2.68 11.85     5 2.32 0.195781 57 2.7 11.89     5 2.3 0.19344 56 2.74 11.93     5 2.26 0.189438 54 2.8 12.01     5 2.2 0.183181 49 3.06 12.208     5 1.94 0.158912 47 3.18 12.284     5 1.82 0.14816 43 3.37 12.42     5 1.63 0.13124 And then use that current and the ECU's sensed voltage (which must be the voltage drop across the in ECU resister is there is one) to calculate the resistance of that in ECU resistor. You get:             Values in sensor   Other resistor °C ECU V sensor ohms (interpolated) Supply volts Volt drop Current   Volt Drop Resistance 58 2.68 11.85     5 2.32 0.195781   2.68 13.68879 57 2.7 11.89     5 2.3 0.19344   2.7 13.95783 56 2.74 11.93     5 2.26 0.189438   2.74 14.46381 54 2.8 12.01     5 2.2 0.183181   2.8 15.28545 49 3.06 12.208     5 1.94 0.158912   3.06 19.25592 47 3.18 12.284     5 1.82 0.14816   3.18 21.46325 43 3.37 12.42     5 1.63 0.13124   3.37 25.67816 And that's where it falls apart, because the resulting resistance would need to be the same for all of those temperatures, and it is not. So clearly the physical model is not correct. Anyway, you or someone else can use that information to go forward if someone has a better physical model. I can also show you how to interpolate for temperatures between those in the resistance chart. It's not fun because you've got to either do it like I did it for every 5°C range separately, or check to see if the slope remains constant over a wide range, then you can just work up a single formula. I'm just showing how to do it for a single 5° span. For the 58°C temperature, resistance = 11.77+2*(11.97-11.77)/5 The calc is a little arse backwards because the resistance is NTC (negative temperature coefficient), so the slope is negative, but I'm lazy, so I just treated 58 as if it was 2 degrees away from 60, not 3 degrees away from 55, and so on.
×
×
  • Create New...