Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, i recently attempted to fount a front mount intercooler kit on my R33. Had no problems removing the standard intercooler but i am facing great difficulties cutting a hole in the chasis on the drivers side and trimming the reinforcement bar. Need the car urgently back on the road but not able to drive the car to a mechanic to get it fixed because the standard intercooler and the reinforcement bar have been removed!

Was wondering anyone out there could help me in cutting the hole in the chasis and trimming the reinforcement bar. Will pay some money. I am located in central brisbane.

Can contact me on 0432022070

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78561-could-someone-please-help-me/
Share on other sites

If I were you I'd call some mobile car stereo/immobiliser installers until you find one with the equipment to cut metal in their truck.

also I'd save you waiting around for some good samaratin on here.

The alternate solution is Cable ties and gaffer tape. Just tie and tape your car back together and drive it to the workshop.

Big drill, expensive hole saw bit, push hard...

Alternatively... Drill lots of small holes around the circumference of where you want the hole until you have yourself a big hole...

As for the reo bar, a grinder and cutting disk works wonders... Shouldn't cost you more than 30 bucks at Supercheap to get one... Just watch your fingers ;)

Either get a proper drill (none of this cordless shit).. and a hole cutter that fits onto the end of the drill. Again, a drill from bunnings will cost you $30 and even ok quality. The hole cutters are NOT expensive (bad strutto) for the cheap ass one.. about $15. You will probably destroy the blade, but just throw it out afterwards. Problem is that its probably not going to be wide enough diameter, so you may have to do two side by side.

Otherwise, Bunnings.. anglegrinder.. this is what I used no problems. Just draw up a "box" and cut 4 straight and neat lines. Anglegrinder is about $30 these days (nothing) and even not too bad quality.. thinner disc is about $2..Angle grinder is $30 entertainment in itself, shoots off all sorts of fireworks.. you'll be going "weeeee" the whole time..

nice effort cyrus.

go to a decent tool shop such as tradetools or glennfords and get a steel holesaw suitable for the size of your cooler pipe.

on a r33 you will have to remove your washer bottle obviously. use an electric drill to drill the hole, its advisable to use cutting oil or a holl drilling spray to save your new hole saw otherwise you will **** the teeth on it. also dont go too fast at it or again you will heat the metal up and screw the teeth on the holesaw.

cutting the rio use an angle grinder, make sure you actually hang onto it and dont test the sharpness of the blade on your fingers. be carefull using powertools, they can do nasty things in the wrong hands.

If I were you I'd call some mobile car stereo/immobiliser installers until you find one with the equipment to cut metal in their truck.

also I'd save you waiting around for some good samaratin on here.

The alternate solution is Cable ties and gaffer tape. Just tie and tape your car back together and drive it to the workshop.

The good samaratin has arrived!

Problem solvered. Just borrowed my dad's little compressor and used my air hacksaw from work. Drilled a pilot hole and worked my way around from there. Not too many hassles cept the hole is more square than round. You can't see it anyway so everyone ended up satisfied in the end.

masonry bit you may as well stand there with the hose and try and blast your way through.

you need a proper hole saw made for use with steel, or a steel drill bit, another option is use a drill bit to drill a small slot out then use a reciprocating saw to cut the hole out, be warned this isnt a pretty way to do it, it ends up pretty messy

Word of wise guys too, when using a grinder around your car cover the roof,bonnet/boot (depending on were u r working) & windscreen with sheets!!!!!!!! Trust me you don't want metal bits melted into your paint work & windscreen.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...