Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 9 months later...
Guest tackdog

Hey guys. I have a few Q's for the fellow Territorians up here re: R33 GTST. I'm going to buy one at the end of this year after house minding one for 3 months when in QLD. I have HEAPS of Q's I'm hoping that someone can help me with!

Where is the most reputable place in Darwin to get any tuning done. How about performance mods ie: A/Market Engine Management fitment / Tuning, Coolers, Turbo Upgrades ect.....

Or am I better off taking 4 weeks off work, headin south and get it all done down there in one hit whe I buy one?

Any issues with insurance up here? I briefly spoke to shannons and had a reasonable quote.

Any of you guys hit Hidden valley on the Friday night street runs?

Been there a few times and seen a few imports s l o w l y making a scene.

Ive only seen 3 white R33's getting around the local area. Nice 33 with a 400R front bar i passed the other day headin home.

cheers,

Tackdog

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/786-nt-roll-call/#findComment-259082
Share on other sites

I think your options for performance work and upgrades in Darwin is pretty limited from what i have seen (lived there 10 years). Especially for high performance turbos like skylines etc.

If you are going to buy one down south somewhere (which would seem likely) then get any major stuff you want done while you are down. There are more places with good reputations, and more competition means better prices for you :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/786-nt-roll-call/#findComment-275804
Share on other sites

whoever that was directed at I agree, I am going to be buying a silvia and have some work down to it, all down south, I just don't trust the mechanics up here, sure they (some) do a good job but they don't see enough performance cars to know EXACTLY what they are doing, and I don't plan on being the guinee (sp) pig :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/786-nt-roll-call/#findComment-276503
Share on other sites

stuff's cheaper down south any way. Intercoolers, Mandrel bent exhausts etc are all much cheaper so if you guy a car down here anyway it would make sense if you can afford to get it done at the same time.

You could always order the parts up and fit them yourself I guess. The thing I would be worried about is getting it all tuned. I don't know if there are any good workshops around in Darwin for dyno tuning aftermarket computers etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/786-nt-roll-call/#findComment-276676
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...