Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Help

I need a clutch and pressure plate for a R32 GTSt,

I dont want the standard one cause i can get one of those

(and they are crap),

but if someone knows of any place that sells quality clutchs

or of any clutch manufactor that they can recommend that would

be greatly appreciated.

Or if someone is selling one that would be awesome too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78600-help-clutch-for-r32/
Share on other sites

Using the search function would save you a lot of time as this has been done to death.

Anyway...

9 puck cushioned button clutch with NEW uprated pressure plate and thrust bearing is $850 supplied and fitted including flywheel machine.

Extras are usually a gearstick boot as 90% are split and that will cost an extra $35.

Will hold 350-400rwhp so you shoulkd be fine.

Cheers

ken

Using the search function would save you a lot of time as this has been done to death.

Anyway...

9 puck cushioned button clutch with NEW uprated pressure plate and thrust bearing is $850 supplied and fitted including flywheel machine.

Extras are usually a gearstick boot as 90% are split and that will cost an extra $35.

Will hold 350-400rwhp so you shoulkd be fine.

Cheers

ken

I had one of these in my GTR previously.

Feels almost like a stock clutch but survived a LOT of abuse.

Highly recommend for a RWD car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Coming home late at night and driving past the police is the only reason i need one haha And yeh, definitley needs a switch to quickly enable it, dont have time to be getting my phone, opening an app, waiting for it to update etc before being able to make the change
    • Because it is financially convenient for them lol. Why wouldn't they want to give you the lowest possible valuation for your car?
    • Yep. @Duncan also shannons they will rip you dry and will be probably limited on how much you can drive. Also keep in mind that you always have to have it garaged with Shannons, with enthusiasts as per their PDS you can have it 2 times per week on the driveway for example. 
    • I had a generic 4" Varex rear box on my old V8, worked a treat for sneaking home late at night, it was as quite as stock when closed The car was "fairly" loud when open as it consisted of 1" 7/8 headers to 3" catted Y pipe, to 4" single, it did have a resonator in the mid pipe and only the Varex out the back I also hard wired in a Varex dash mount switch, as the key fob thing is a pain to use when driving I wouldn't recommend giving the beans when it is closed though as it creates a large restriction in the exhaust  It also can in very handy when pulled over for "random" breath tests or just cruising past the constabulary   
    • Here is the before and after of the scraping/sanding of the IC pads on the tachometer board for the fix mentioned in this thread. And yes it worked fine after. Just a note if you change any components on the board the tach calibration can be wrong showing the wrong idle etc...only problem is once it is installed back in the cluster you can't get to it to adjust...ouch! My fix was to cut out the calibration pot (the blue one) from the board and run it with two wires to the fuse panel under the dash where I could adjust the idle calibration once everything was installed. And yes I soldered everything up again including the half soldered components either side of the IC in my photos                                
×
×
  • Create New...