R32 track/drift susp setup

[32drifter]

I was just wondering if anyone can recommend how to setup my suspension gear. I know i should adjust it all to suit my style but i would rather start from a general setting and adjust from there rather than at 0 on every part...

settings for:

FRONT

Camber - ?

Castor - ?

Toe - ?

REAR

Camber - ?

Toe - ?

cheers

Aden

[grandmasterb]

I was just wondering if anyone can recommend how to setup my suspension gear. I know i should adjust it all to suit my style but i would rather start from a general setting and adjust from there rather than at 0 on every part...

settings for:

FRONT

Camber - ?

Castor - ?

Toe - ?

REAR

Camber - ?

Toe - ?

cheers

Aden

everyone is different really so its hard to say that what works for me is going to work for you or anyone else.

Get out there and try a couple of different setting and see for yourself, only way to do it really.

[Sydneykid]

I was just wondering if anyone can recommend how to setup my suspension gear. I know i should adjust it all to suit my style but i would rather start from a general setting and adjust from there rather than at 0 on every part...

settings for:

FRONT

Camber - 2.5 negative

Castor - 8 positive

Toe - 0

REAR

Camber - 1.5 negative

Toe - 0

cheers

Aden

[MerlinTheHapyPig]

what sk suggests sounds good.

I'm running +8 caster ....stock everything else......

i've been told that 0 camber on rears is good for drift because tyres will wear evenly. can anyone who knows what they're talking about suggest why this is good or not good?

[Sydneykid]

what sk suggests sounds good.

I'm running +8 caster  ....stock everything else......

i've been told that 0 camber on rears is good for drift because tyres will wear evenly.  can anyone who knows what they're talking about suggest why this is good or not good?

It depends on how much body roll you get on the rear, if it is dead flat them zero camber will give the most even wear. That's unusual though, even the best drift cars have some lean, even if it is only tyre compression not suspension. If it rolls, then a little negative will compensate (for the roll) and keep the tyre parrallel to the road.

[treo]

depending on how stiff you suspension is i would vary your rear camber from that, i drift in my R33 and id have to say if your car is generally well balanced that is the best starting point for drift. A track set up is more ideal for drift/track car setup, otherwise you might as well be drifting whilst racelining mconstantly fighting oversteer

[Steve]

For drift, I suggest you try running 1 mm total toe out on the front, 3 to 4mm total in on the rear, and go from there.

If your car is excessively lowered you may find you are getting a bit too much bump steer, then either raise your car (suggested and cheapest), change the rack ends to maintain the optimum relationship with lower control arms, or go the non handling option and run toe in on the front (not recommended).

Toe out on the front gives good turn in, and in on the rear gives much better control when sideways, but what suits you best will be, to some degree, an individual thing depending on how much traction and power you have and your driving style.

[Steve]

Sydneykid, I was always under the impression that camber was (mainly) to counteract under roll on the tyres? using this line, wouldnt the amount of camber used have alot to to do with what sort of tyres you have and how they are fitted to the rims (amount of sidewall stretch)?

Or am I completely off target here?

[Sydneykid]

Sydneykid, I was always under the impression that camber was (mainly) to counteract under roll on the tyres?  using this line, wouldnt the amount of camber used have alot to to do with what sort of tyres you have and how they are fitted to the rims (amount of sidewall stretch)?

Or am I completely off target here?

No, that is part of the equation, on an F1 car (and most high downforce open wheelers) it is pretty much ALL of the equation. But from the stiffest to the softest sidwalls is nothing (maybe 1 or 2 degrees) compared to the stiffest and the softest chassis (maybe 15 degrees). Obviously tyre pressure is relevant, pump them up to 100 psi and it won't matter what the sidewall is.

That's why we use a tyre pyrometer to set the camber, the tread temperature tells us pretty much everything we need to know.

Too much neg camber = too hot on the inside

Too little neg camber = too hot on the outside

Too much pressure = too hot in the middle

Too little pressure = too cold in the middle

But it is all interrelated of course. For example, if the tyre is too hot on the outside I could increase the neg camber, or stiffen up the stabiliser bar, or go to a higher spring rate or increase the bump valving on the shock. That's where the fun starts, which one do I choose?

[32drifter]

thanks heaps guys! im also gonna speak to the guy doing the alignment tommorow and see what he recommends. on sunday ill post up how i had it all set up and also how it felt on the track, as im entering the G1 drift comp in SA at Mallala.

cheers again guys very useful info!

[mr_rbman]

which car were u? i was there! was the best drift comp i've ever been too!

[32drifter]

i was the gunmetal one with the primered fibreglass guards, was doing ok (set o tyres in 6 laps) in practice then had boost problems in qualifying (not coming on until 5500rpm when usually at 4000rpm, and not as hard). No excuses really just pissed off it couldnt have happened earlier so i could fix it...

anyways back to topic: the setup was as follows (the guy who did it recons he does the JMS pick bits car and suggested this as a start, which was very similar to what you guys said)

front

camber: 3 deg neg

castor: 10 deg

toe: 1 deg out

rear

camber: 1 deg neg

toe: 2 deg in

very happy with the setup, the turn in was sharp and the rear end came out effortlessly. lock to lock was a slight flick of the wrist and the castor did the rest. did understeer once but but a quick flick of more turn in and that was sorted, didnt stuff up the drift. held good angle coming out of corners no real need for mid corner adjustments... but then throttle control helps... mmm thats basically it only really got 10 laps all up on this setup and i dont really think i would change anything as yet, just gonna start getting faster into corners and see how it reacts then

[mr_rbman]

ye i saw u. not too bad at all, wanna give us some specs on your engine?

[32drifter]

internally stock rb20, t3/4 turbo, full hks exhaust, hks pod, gtr furl pump, gtr front mount, 18psi, 210rwkw, thats it really, plus mech diff and all the susp gear...

[mr_rbman]

internally stock rb20, t3/4 turbo, full hks exhaust, hks pod, gtr furl pump, gtr front mount, 18psi, 210rwkw, thats it really, plus mech diff and all the susp gear...

thats a top effort

congrats!