Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have 3 roll cages that i dont need.

One is from an R33 and the other two are from r32 GTR's.

They are all 6 point cages with cross bar in back.

2 of them have complete padding and the other has padding in the rear section.

Asking $600 each. They are all in perfect condition want to get rid of them.

Call me on 0408064230 or e-mail: [email protected]

Thanx all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78655-roll-cages/
Share on other sites

They are all full roll cages,

all 2nd hand but as good as knew.

Removed from cars before compliancing

I have only got a couple of pics when they were in cars

because they are still at workshop that removed them.

here are a couple of the r33 cage inside car.

they are all made from steel and padded

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78655-roll-cages/#findComment-1436788
Share on other sites

what size is the tubing? looks close to 2 1/2 maybe 3"?

what grade of steel is it? mild, s/s(unlikely), chromemoly, 350, 450???

obviousely its all bolt up? How is it joined through the top section? with bolts or has it been welded and needs to be rewelded once put back in car?

Another quick question..In the 33's if you run straight past the steering wheel near door hinge, theres barely any room for hand movement around the standard steering wheel, that pic had an a/m wheel on it, do you know if this was to allow for the lack of room, cause i dont think you can legally remove an airbag wheel and replace it with a nonairbag sort.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78655-roll-cages/#findComment-1436933
Share on other sites

I am not sure about the grade of steel but the piping is about 2" and looks bigger with the padding.

Yes the car has an a/m wheel on it i am not sure if it will be a problem for the stock wheel of a series 2. it was ok with the series 1. wheel fro memory

and it all bolts up along the roof so is easy to install took about 2 hour's to remove.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78655-roll-cages/#findComment-1437079
Share on other sites

The cage bolts in, next to the front seat just under the back seat at the side's, and at the front where the floor mate's are. Anyone will have to drill holes threw floor and wheel arch's bolt or there would be no problems i can see with welding the them in either.

I Presume the GTR cages would fit a 32 as I was under the impression the inside dimensions were the same but if someone could verify that. that would help.

Tha cages are at the work shop so i have only a couple of poor pics of them in the car hope you can see them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78655-roll-cages/#findComment-1438537
Share on other sites

My phone was scrwed over the last 2 days.

I have another one now, same number but lost all mesages and numbers and records of anyone who called me or left mesages with me.

So if anyone was interested the cages are still for sale and anyone who spoke to me before will have to ring me or mesage me again sorry.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78655-roll-cages/#findComment-1442856
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!
    • Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...