Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The new emanage is out now.

Check it out here...http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/tmp/ultim...spec/index.html

A few features that will appeal to most are:

A/T Shift Compensation Feature - On vehicles with Automatic Transmissions, ignition timing can be compensated at set shift-up and shift-down points

A/F Target Value Map (feedback tuning function) - By inputting target Air Fuel values in this map, “e-mange Ultimate” will automatically make corrections to the “Injection Map,” if an A/F meter (*high quality) is connected to the Auxiliary Output signal. This feature can shorten the tuning time.

Acceleration Ignition Map - Ignition timing can also be corrected for a rapid change in the throttle opening rate for a smoother transition into wide open throttle

Fouled Plug Feature - When initiated this feature can help clean fouled spark plugs by cutting the injector’s firing at start up. To fix the fouled plug start the engine with wide-open throttle.

Speed Limiter Cut Feature - This feature will eliminate the factory speed limiter. (May not work on some vehicles)

Knock Monitor (Future update) - Knock can be monitored and reviewed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78717-new-e-manage-ultitmate/
Share on other sites

hmmm I spose I should do a search but how does this new model compare to a powerfc?

You'll be comparing a piggy back to a standalone.

The MAJOR up side to this is that it claims to work on auto cars with the timing problem resolved.

So auto owners will want to look in to this.

Prices are here http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/

Would be $900 delivered to Aus for the e-manage plus the harness kit + software...also this guy is one of the best suppliers around, efficient and reliable and sends everything via UPS tracked.

So let me get this right, it has direct control over the injectors? Also how the **** does it indivually tune the timing does it have direct sequential control over the ignition as well. And if it does do have control over both than why not just do away with the standard ECU? Maybe I'm interpretting it wrong.

So let me get this right, it has direct control over the injectors?  Also how the **** does it indivually tune the timing does it have direct sequential control over the ignition as well.  And if it does do have control over both than why not just do away with the standard ECU?  Maybe I'm interpretting it wrong.

Maybe it is like the HKS FCON PRO where it uses the stock ECU for cold starts, air-con etc... :crazy:

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
so is that $900 including all the bits and pieces or $900 and then harness and software on top of that? just confused

just orderd mine from perfectrun.com.au.

The unit itself is around AU$730 which include software and the complete harness set is about AU$112, and yet to find out how much the shipping cost is.

Now just need to find where I can get it install and tune in Brisbane area.

BTW, there's no english translation for it yet, because it's new item, but the guys at perfectrun told me if I can fax them the wiring instruction. They will be happy to translated it into english.

$730 + $112 + freight + 10% duty + 10% gst = ~$1100

That's as much as a Power FC

On the Stagea I used a Jaycar DFA $80, Controller $70 and an SITC $210 = $360

And I don't have to work out my own mapping for gearshifts as the SITC doesn't change the standard ECU logic. Pop over to the Stagea section for progress to date and ongoing results:cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
    • I would suggest equally difficult to find, perhaps edging to the SR. Turkey has almost exclusively Euro market cars, some Korean, few Japanese other than pedestrian shite. I guess they're probably losing the fight against Chinese shit like we are now too. I would vote for a BMW V8, found in a 540i in a wrecking yard somewhere in Deutschland (or possibly Albania).
×
×
  • Create New...