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What do you think of my 26 highmount set up?

Shaun

By Shaun,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Shaun Mentor

Shaun

Posted
Posted

GDay,

I just thought id post up some pics of my RB26 with the GT3540 (0.82ar). The manifold is from GCG Turbos and is a Trust copy. The only thing im concerned about is the fact that ive got to use an adapter between the T4 flanged manifold and the T3 flanged turbo. The spacer is beautifully made and creates a smooth transition between the flanges, but i was wondering if any of you guys have had troubles with these types of adapters. I was thinking of cutting off the T4 flange and using the adapter itself as a flange. I also dont like that it makes the turbo sit abot 15mm higher on the manifold.

Im quite happy with the manifold, but still concerned about it cracking, as i was going to get a mild steel one custom made; we'll see how it goes.

The engine itself has forged pistons, ARP everything, shot peened rods, standard cams (atm), no porting. It'll go in a rear wheel drive R32 gtst. Does anyone else have a similar set up? What sort of power would be expected? Im hoping for a maximum of 350rwkw.

Oh, im using 700cc injectors and a full fuel system. Im tossing up between an AP power FC with a Q45 AFM or an Autronic SM4.

Im keen to know of anyones experiences with any of the above equipment.

Thanks,

Shaun.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

My 20 cents worth of observations;

Is bonnet clearance going to be a concern?

The most common cracking I have seen is where the primary pipes join to the cylinder head flange. This is caused by the pipes getting very hot and the weight of the turbo and wastegate hanging off the welds where the pipes join the flange. Looking at the photos, I can't see any gusseting there?

Another common cause is hanging the weight of the exhaust system off the turbine flange. The best way to avoid this is to have an exhaust support bracket around where the gearbox bell housing bolts to the engine block. This supports the exhaust itself and also helps to support the turbo and takes some of the load off the manifold.

:)

hungry6 Experienced

hungry6

Posted
Posted

Like Sydneykid said it may crack, but to my experience, well my last so call attemp was a similar set up, the one problem that i found was the extent of heat soak in the engine bay, to the point that it melt wiring and rubber hoses started to go soft, try and contain the heat radiating from that manifold-exhaust. Also if your intending to sling that thing in a r32 gtst, it might pay to get the weight distribution check on all 4 wheels, might pop a few other questions also, happy smoking!! LOL.

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted
whats the air-con compressor for???

Traction control???

Id say because he wants the same power as an RB20, but doesnt want to have to do a Roy and drive round with the heater on full blast.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Hey, be nice, leaving the fan on hot/hogh is the poor mans aftermarket radiator:)

When you do your oil and water lines be sure you put some thought into where you run them and whether they need sheathing. I have had a few goes at the oil return hose as it has to run between cylinder runners and i think i have finbally got the right fix for makign it last when it shoudl just melt:)

Shaun Mentor

Shaun

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for your replies guys.

Thermal efficiency is something im going to take very seriously with this set up, as the increased surface area of exhaust etc will make the engine bay pretty hot. Ill get the turbine housing HPC'd, along with the dump pipe and screemer pipe. Im getting my engine guy to have a look at the manifold to see if any improvements with bracing can be made, as Sydneykid suggested (thanks SK). Ive also got access to a bending machine, so i'll go sick with the fabrication of stainless heat shields around the manifold, exhaust housing and between the turbo/manifold and the passenger side shock tower/ABS. Ive also got an East Bear FRP vented bonnet which is very good at drawing heat out of the engine bay. Im sure the turbo will fit under the bonnet; ive looked closely at jap cars with much bigger comp covers and mine seems to be about the same height.

Doughboy, i asked GCG for a T4 flanged GT35 but they said they arent made in T4. Ill certainly be ringing them again because the T4 housing would be much better. Anyone know where else i can source them from if GCG dont have em?

Im not too concerned if i dont make the abovementioned power figure, as i'd rather response and street drivability with this set up (hence the 0.82 rear). I'm trying to get the best of both worlds; ill let you know if its possible!

As for the air conditioning, ill wack it on and see if i use it. Im not too keen on the condenser between the intercooler and radiator, so i might pull it out later.

Shaun.

Shaun Mentor

Shaun

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I just rang GCG and they said that Garrett are not (nor will they) make T4 turbine housings for the GT35 turbos. They only make them with the T04Z. I think the T04Z is a bit too big (800hp rated?) for my application if i want response and decent street drivability.

Shaun.

DoughBoy Veteran

DoughBoy

Posted
Posted

Yeah the GT35R / GT3540 has a large turbine, based on previous setups posted on the forums (Bu5ter, B-Man) that hit 330rwkw with smaller turbos I don't see why 350rwkw isn't going to be a walk in the park. Especially since both those motors were mere RB25s, with smaller cams (both lift and duration) and limited to <20psi. Some dude from the UK forums posted up his results with one, IIRC his was a track car and made impressive powah.

hungry6 Experienced

hungry6

Posted
Posted

You run almost 600hp+ atrw with a gt35R, just that you have to find the right ppls to retune-shape the exhaust housing efficientcy. Last I got was 570hp and then a valve guide crap it pants, so there is another area you might want to look into also. But the 570 was the 2nd run after the rebuild and we were still rooting around with the fuel maps. the x.housing i ran last was a 1.06?, anyway, semi slick is the only rubber you'll be running after the conversion as normal street tyre are a waste of time, as someone here already mention. Fun times are ahead and make sure u run it in properly. the temtation to give it a bootful when you hear it spool up is almost unbearable.

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