Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i might be borrowing these off a mate for some experimentation next time i'm down at WSID, just curious though, do i neeed front runners or anything like that or will they go fine with my 18's on the front

will they shake or be weird to drive, i wanna go fast but don't wanna hurt my car

also burnout wise, do i need one, they seem pretty stick as it is, and i can only see a burnout breaking sumthin.......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78857-mt-drag-slicks/
Share on other sites

They should be fine without front runners till you start cracking 120mph+.

You will notice if you use them on the street (which you shouldnt) they will move around and feel squishy in the rear if you corner but all you have to do is remember that they are drag tyres they are meant for a straight line they dont have the same sidewall construction as a road or circut tyre so no ricky racer cornering!!!!

As for a burnout they will still benefit from a bit of a burnout especially because you will be rolling through the water..... Best bet dont start your burn in the water roll through it and past it about a meter... This is an old trick because if you do a burn in the water the water flicks up in you inner gaurd and as you sit staging it drips down onto the tyre, water off the line = bad traction.

THere will be water on the tyre so a burnout should start pretty easy but like i said you dont need to put on a smoke show or sit on the limiter just a quick burnout a little smoke and that should be suffecient.

Good luck...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78857-mt-drag-slicks/#findComment-1438717
Share on other sites

Crossply tyres 'walk' at speed. Meaning they move from side to side due to the composition of their sidewall. The reason for crossply tyres (front runners) on the front is to allow the front to move with the back.

Radials don't allow this side to side movement at the front so you can get a pendulum effect happening in the deep end and in a worst case scenario, hit the wall in the deep end, crossed right up.

Adrian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78857-mt-drag-slicks/#findComment-1438852
Share on other sites

well i doubt i'll be running 12.5 or quicker but yeah just wanna do it outta curiosity, so below 120mph (200kph ish) they should be fine with my 18s on the front, well might get down there early and have a few runs without them and a few with, and see how it goes

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78857-mt-drag-slicks/#findComment-1438938
Share on other sites

so is it safe to run full slicks without front runners aslong as i stay sub 200kph (120mph) or is this going to cause problems ???

I wouldn't do it, I was speaking to Theo a while back & he was driving the blue 11 sec R33GTST with slicks on the back & radials on the front. He said for no reason it "snapped" mid-track & he almost put it into the wall - no warning at all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78857-mt-drag-slicks/#findComment-1439093
Share on other sites

yes this is an 11 second car as mentioned you shouldnt run radials and slick on a car this fast thats why it just"snapped" mid track!!!!!!

Look as mentioned if you run your 18 on the front and MT's on the back you will be fine as long as you think your car wont crack 120MPH on the strip and by andra rules 12.5seconds which is around 110mph so theres a good guide to stick by. If you feel the car is around low 13s or slower you should have no problems!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78857-mt-drag-slicks/#findComment-1439343
Share on other sites

12.5seconds which is around 110mph so theres a good guide to stick by.

Depends on a lot of things - power, tyre height, diff ratio, manual/auto etc etc etc.

If you think you'll go ANYTHING like 13.0 or quicker (especially on slicks where you should be running a few tenths faster than on street tyres) don't run radials at the front.

Adrian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78857-mt-drag-slicks/#findComment-1439572
Share on other sites

Feels like the car is on ice when using combination tyres, kinda fun to flick the steering wheel and the ass wobbles like the suspension is made from jelly.

Having said that I backed off half track at Bu5ter's drag day last year. Didn't feel too confident (ok ok I am a pusseh).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78857-mt-drag-slicks/#findComment-1439612
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just checked in first post and you should be able to bring it home November this year, right? I'm amazed you made it through four years of this. As hard as it feels now the rest will go by in a breeze in hindsight, I'm sure.
    • Realized I haven't been back here in a while. Still here, still alive, still waiting for the car.  I went back again the only time last year from Oct-Nov for R's Meeting and drove it around some more, including a few laps on Fuji Speedway(in the wet, sadly). The car still feels good, but have a couple small things to address. I've been getting more parts but have slowed down still, and most of the bigger purchases are now out of the way. I find myself getting impatient more and more when it comes to getting started on this project; it's quite hard for me not being able to really dive in and start making this car my own because it's halfway across the world. At times it doesn't even really feel like I own one of these. Haven't really been motivated or had the desire to document the last trip on here or social media for, well, reasons... but here's some pics...it's also still alive and well as you can see: I've narrowed down to the last large part purchases(anything over $2k) before the engine build to be: 1) Ohlins Road & Tracks 2) ATS Twin Carbon clutch 3) Endless BBK with some custom options and 4) Kansai Service carbon driveshaft I don't think the budget exists for all of these this year, but I'll try for one or two items I think. Though, every time I look at my spreadsheet I sigh, shake my head, and get depressed just that little bit more.  'til later.
    • It's a stunning location!  I've been to NZ twice but haven't made it to the North Island yet.  Definitely on the cards but the South Island is hard to tear yourself away from too... Looking forward to see what you can wring out of it once you can get it to hold together!  Be awesome to get a low 11 or even sneaking into the high 10's pass out of it.  That's a bloody quick car that most people will never experience in their life.  Enjoy!
    • Nominally yes but I’m not really at that stage yet. Outsourcing to Japan is also a relatively good deal at the moment because their currency has devalued much more against the USD.  You would assume this but a lot has changed from the pandemic. Mechanics are in short supply and demand for fixing old cars has gone up from the cost of new cars. 250-300 USD/hr is not an unusual shop labor rate in California and you’re paying that regardless of whether the guy is competent or not. Coworkers have been quoted 3000 USD for a water pump and thermostat at a dealer on an N54. Oil changes went from ~75 USD to 150 on fairly normal cars like Civics. The cost of the oil and filter hasn’t even kept up with inflation.
    • The downside to that is that the cost of everything, particularly labour, is significantly higher here than it is over there in the Disunited States of Slavery. You can hire 3 tradesmen over there for just the Ranger Raptor allowance of a single 3rd year apprentice over here.
×
×
  • Create New...