Jump to content
SAU Community

can an engine run too cold ???


Recommended Posts

hey

my thermo died so it had been replaced but the car is now running much cooler then it originally was, these days its lucky to get upto 70deg (damn winter) whilst it was originally running at approx 85 deg. can this cause

bad fuel consumption ?

loss of power ?

engine damage ?

i'm just wondering cause i was looking at the water temp correction tables in the PFC and noticed that the only place where its set to 1.00 is at 80 deg +++

but if my water temp doesn't reach 80deg + then it'll always be treating the engine as if its still warming up..... should i get the thermo adjusted or can i just set the settings in the PFC to 1.00 for water temps at 60 deg +

also in the correciton tables there are 2 columns i assume one is for A/C on and the other for A/C off, but am unsure....

please help :confused: :confused: :confused:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hmmmmmm

unfortunately without an oil temp sensor i woulnd't have a clue about oil temps but one would assume they are cooler if the engine is running cooler.......

so can i adust using the water temp correciton maps ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most thermos do not cool as well as the standard clutch fan. After people install thermos, they usually notice that the temps run hotter.

Therefore, you're setup should be alright, because if you were running the stock fan, it would be even cooler (that is, assuming that you have the same setup - i.e. it switches on at the same temp etc).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so hopefully getting the PFC tuned should fix this problem, thats cool, aslong as it seems like a normal thing to be happening,

so since its getting tuned next week i'll slowly play with the PFC and see what happens

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your best bet is to re-calibrate your thermo fan controller to turn on later and keep your water temp between 75-85degC

Anything less and really it just causes engine wear and tear.

I would be looking to run 1.00 or no extra fuel anything above 70degC, anything below this and it will require extra fuel for smooth running.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well i had a fiddle with the PFC, turned down the 50 deg value in the PFC, seems to be runnign ok, its hard to tell nowhere to get up into 4th gear and wheelspin city thru 1,2, and a bit of 3, so hopefully tommorow will be cold and dry and we'll see, how can i find out how the thermo is set ???

got up to 70 deg quickly tonight on the way home and hovered there not until i put the boot in (3 short boosts in 3rd) did it start to climb and only upto 74 deg, then slowly dropped again......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most definitely yes.

All metals expand. Aluminium-alloys much more & faster than iron-steel. All engines are machined to calculated clearances for the material composition of the components, so running cool it will not allow enough expansion & most components will wear faster. Also, most alloy headed engines produce maximum power between 82 - 90 deg. c. This is ofcourse as long as the gauge is accurate & measureing the temp. of the water exiting the head. Don't confuse low engine temps. with low charge air temps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gosh these bmw's are worse money pits than JDM's! I won't complain about my car anymore 😂
    • I'll just leave this quick tip here after reading your joys of getting the car in the air. It should take no more then 10 minutes to get the car safely up on stands.  So for the front, jack on the tow recovery points (marked in red). Put the jack stands under the lower control arm mounting point (marked in yellow). This photo is of a R34 GTR, however the process is the same. For the rear, jack under the diff (marked in red). Put the jack stands under the rear subframe or where the lower control arm mounting point (marked in yellow). Which point you use will depend on your stand, pick a nice stable point.  You've probably already read this but it's worth repeating. When jacking up the car or using stands, stay away from the chassis rails/pinch welds. Even the factory jack point, stay away from that too unless using a factory jack. I used those jack points for years without issue until I turned into an old man and bought a QuickJack lol. 
    • And this is where the leak is happening: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/7h1vlmg2j5aa7rksvsjc9/IMG_9982.jpeg?rlkey=d3bnpau5f615zmxqmca0llvr7&st=kquvdxvs&dl=0   Apologies but it seems adding an image from a link does not work when the images are in Dropbox. 
    • Here are some pics from the auction: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/gkbfaa7urogzhyzxtdgq4/4cd77e2d-e19f-45fb-80a0-f9a88fd7f51f.jpeg?rlkey=39p7xyvgr33kj0avcjry2v4ap&st=ncxmagj4&dl=0   https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/gkbfaa7urogzhyzxtdgq4/4cd77e2d-e19f-45fb-80a0-f9a88fd7f51f.jpeg?rlkey=39p7xyvgr33kj0avcjry2v4ap&st=ncxmagj4&dl=0
    • Hi all, From the western suburbs here. Just got my 2000 R34 GTT registered today! Got it imported from Japan through a mate who is doing them and managed to find a decent one. This one has only done 110,000 Km and had no body rust etc. so was very happy. I used to own a 25Gt back in 2015 (ate Ramen noodles for years to save up for it), but unfortunately, it got stolen TEN DAYS after I bought it!! Came back from Uni and the car was missing - cops found it in Springvale a month later with a lot of needles  😒 It was too late by then and I had moved on to a different car (300ZX), and after that one got broken into around 2018, I was in a very bad place and decided I would never buy a car again because it was just pointless!!! ~yeah, I have some very bad mojo~ 🥺 But now, with a stable job and a secure garage, I thought I'd get the R34 4D again but not as a daily! I love the R34s but a GTR is still a bit off my pay grade so settled for the GTT instead.    The first step for me is to get this car serviced and have all fluids, belts and spark plugs changed. I might do the brakes at one point too but atm they are fine, the fluids are what I want changed since this car probably sat in a garage for a long time. I'll then get some coilovers since the suspension needs to be changed anyway (the dust cover kit is disintegrating). I'll also upgrade my car alarm to a Viper system and then look at rims and tyres (I'm a sucker for TE37s - might have enough saved in another 3 years for that).   Today: I was planning to do the oil, coolant, air filter and fuel filter change this week. Started on the oil change today and MY GOD what a pain!! I used to think the 300ZX engine bay was cramped - oh I was so wrong! 😂 I've done the usual services on my cars before so it was not like I was going in blind. I looked up all the forum details about what oils to use, what coolant to use, what points to use to jack the car or place stands etc but I did not expect it to be this hard. Long story short - all I managed to do was the oil and filter change. I think I might end up taking it to a mechanic for a coolant change because my SCA stands and trolley jack just can't get far enough underneath to the cross-member and I don't want to be crushed under my favourite car....yet. Side note: In Dandenong, there used to be a shop that lets you hire their hoists - does anyone know if they have those around? I can't seem to find the Dandenong place anymore. I contacted them off FB almost 6 years ago and I'm not in it now. If anyone know of one, that would save me some time going to a mechanic for the basic services. Oil: Dark and gooey but no metal pieces. Oil Filter: Was a b***h to take off but no red flags Air filter: Yucky! Was black (Smells like fuel which makes me think it may have been running rich? - am I way off?)   Concerns: I have but one concern atm and that is that there was a very small amount of oil leaking where the engine and the transmission connect (Automatic). It may be the rear seal? It's not a massive leak and it does not affect the oil pressures or leak oil all along the driveway. It's been falling into the cover this whole time. I've taken the cover off so I can check the garage floor from time to time.  I also have not seen my engine temperature gauge ever sit at cold and slowly move up to the right spot, but that might be because every time I saw the car today, it was running. I'll check that again tomorrow. ATM it just sits right in the middle. I may just be paranoid but I don't want an overheating engine while my gauges say everything is fine. 🙈 Other than that, I'm very happy with the car! Feels like it's about time I went back to spending my weekends driving or cutting my arm on stupid sh*t in the engine bay.   PS: I will post a pic later on because I underestimated soooo badly today and it was dark by the time I finished! PPS: I broke the two damn plastic pins that hold the intake funnel section to the front bar. This is the piece made to bring cold air to the airbox. The connection to the airbox is fone, but the two clips just broke off! Should I be worried? Anyone else done that? 
×
×
  • Create New...