Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey

my thermo died so it had been replaced but the car is now running much cooler then it originally was, these days its lucky to get upto 70deg (damn winter) whilst it was originally running at approx 85 deg. can this cause

bad fuel consumption ?

loss of power ?

engine damage ?

i'm just wondering cause i was looking at the water temp correction tables in the PFC and noticed that the only place where its set to 1.00 is at 80 deg +++

but if my water temp doesn't reach 80deg + then it'll always be treating the engine as if its still warming up..... should i get the thermo adjusted or can i just set the settings in the PFC to 1.00 for water temps at 60 deg +

also in the correciton tables there are 2 columns i assume one is for A/C on and the other for A/C off, but am unsure....

please help :confused: :confused: :confused:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78873-can-an-engine-run-too-cold/
Share on other sites

Most thermos do not cool as well as the standard clutch fan. After people install thermos, they usually notice that the temps run hotter.

Therefore, you're setup should be alright, because if you were running the stock fan, it would be even cooler (that is, assuming that you have the same setup - i.e. it switches on at the same temp etc).

Your best bet is to re-calibrate your thermo fan controller to turn on later and keep your water temp between 75-85degC

Anything less and really it just causes engine wear and tear.

I would be looking to run 1.00 or no extra fuel anything above 70degC, anything below this and it will require extra fuel for smooth running.

well i had a fiddle with the PFC, turned down the 50 deg value in the PFC, seems to be runnign ok, its hard to tell nowhere to get up into 4th gear and wheelspin city thru 1,2, and a bit of 3, so hopefully tommorow will be cold and dry and we'll see, how can i find out how the thermo is set ???

got up to 70 deg quickly tonight on the way home and hovered there not until i put the boot in (3 short boosts in 3rd) did it start to climb and only upto 74 deg, then slowly dropped again......

Most definitely yes.

All metals expand. Aluminium-alloys much more & faster than iron-steel. All engines are machined to calculated clearances for the material composition of the components, so running cool it will not allow enough expansion & most components will wear faster. Also, most alloy headed engines produce maximum power between 82 - 90 deg. c. This is ofcourse as long as the gauge is accurate & measureing the temp. of the water exiting the head. Don't confuse low engine temps. with low charge air temps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...