Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys got my car dynoed at F.I.S.T today

my dad took it in cause due to work, so i didnt get to speak with them

the dyno graphs b4 the car was tuned, was suprsing

only did 116rwkw all the shit was all over the joint.

thats how badly APC tuned the car,

car was tuned, timing adjusted and boost changed to 8 psi

if want some pics of the dyno graphs ya can email me.

[email protected]

after 2 and half hours, and also findin a big leak or somethin on the standard blow off valve and sortin out everything

it was dynoed at 170.1rwkw, on 8psi, smooth as power line.

on that dyno the clutch was slipping at top end so still could of got more.

i just got my car converted to manual, but have had issues with clutch slipping.

my theory is that it wasnt bled properly and could still be air in the system .

as its been adjusted 3 times as the clutch has been engaging at each end of the clutch pedal

and there has been heaps of free travel, then goes back to none at all. and been adjusted each time. Getting real sick of the shit cause havent even got a chance to get a good run in the car.

the gearbox is in good condition,

no crunchin on gears at all,

when the pedal has been adjusted , every is real smooth and awesome to drive

but then a couple of days later it adjusts itself and theres either no free travel or heaps, and engagin at one of the ends of teh pedal.

Brand new clutch ( heavy duty)

and has a 200b slave cylinder, as being told they are the same as a skyline one.

Anyway happy how it idles and runs jsut the clutch at the moment.

and was happy with the dyno even though the clutch did slip on the dyno.

Hopefully when i get all teh shit sorted i'll take it down the quarter .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78947-dyno-and-clutch-slippage/
Share on other sites

If you have air in the line the clutch will try to stay engaged rather than disengage.

I ran into a problem a couple of months back when i changed my master and slave cylinders. The master wasn't retracting far enough and maintaining pressure in the system. As a result as the temperature of the fluid got hotter (say from sitting at traffic lights for a couple of minutes) it would partially disengage the clutch which resulted in slip when accelerating away.

Easy one to check too. Jack the car up, grab the piston on the slave cylinder and see if you can push it back. If you cant then thats your problem, if you can then you get to keep looking.

trying what bhdave said today see if i can move it

just the thing is that theres abosolutley no free travel and the clutch is harder then usual to push in , so i dont know if im goin to be able to push the piston back .

give it ago though

and i dont know how to post the dyno graph up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Damn it, I was at work last night, and stayed in a room there during the storm with the car outside, but undercover, I just went downstairs and well....there was a large steel locker that has come from some place last night, it wasn't anywhere I could see yesterday, and yeap, it landed on the fraking car....of course it did..... LOL So, I'll need to take it back for paint and panel, luckily it was only the boot that took the hit, so it could have been worse Serves me right for staying at work and getting on the cans with some of the boys
    • Yeah, really happy with how it all turned out As for aftermarket lip, nah, I'm not really a fan for practically reasons on a street car that gets driven everywhere  I did have the full lower kit on my 2015 STI, but found the front lip scrapped alot, even at stock 4x4ish ride height As the NC sits now, with the lowest point of the car at 110mm, so just legal, some steep driveways and steep speed humps will still "just" scrap those little plastic OEM air dam thingies on the undertray just before the front wheels
    • Here's one I help build and tuned a decade ago, Garrett  GTX3071R Gen 1, T3 twin scroll 0.83 rear housing. Went from larger 272 cams down to smaller Tomei Poncams to help with the low end. S13 non VCT motor. Car was purpose built for the track, hence low down was the focus. Note the actual dyno chart shows lower boost, however the EBC and boost gauge showed 1.9Bar (Ignore the torque, I was young and didn't know how to set derived torque)  
    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
    • Awesome writeup and details. Thanks for sharing the story so far. I can relate to parts of it with my previous car and some of the issues I had to deal with.
×
×
  • Create New...