Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

I own a 95 r33 gts25t. I currently have TEIN Type HR adjustables instaleld and i find them to be way to stiff for the sydney roads but they are fine on th highway.

Cause i do a lot of city driving, i want your input on a set of new springs and struts. Any feedback from your experience would be great, what im looking at getting is something with a good ride quality and good handling and what you paid for yours? and possibly any combos such as KYB and king springs etc???

Thanks

Rob

Just grab some 200 front and 150 pound rear springs, If the HRs are in good condition then i would hope they would be ok with a far softer spring. You can buy Bilstein springs for abotu $150 each, adn i understand Eibach springs go for about the same...may help!?!?!?

Do you know where i could find some 200 pound and 150 springs? or would i have to get some made up.

My rear strust seem to be making some rattling noise while driving over dumps. not always but sometimes, im thinking its either lose or their stuffed

  • 2 weeks later...

What type of Bilstein shocks should you get?

There a few on the catelogue, a part number would be great.

What progressive rate spring should you recommend? Are kingspring low's progressive rate, what bilstein sping do you recommend,.

Do you know where i could find some 200 pound and 150 springs? or would i have to get some made up.  

My rear strust seem to be making some rattling noise while driving over dumps. not always but sometimes, im thinking its either lose or their stuffed

Heasmans at Sydenham are Eibach agents, they have most spring rates in stock. They can also check the shocks and they have a shock dyno if you want ultimate testing.

:P

hi, i have been told i need to get new shocks and springs 4 of, could you guys give me a list of good ones that are ok for road driving and are a little stiff but not bone shaking and are priced well around the 600 to 700 pounds mark, not to sure what that is in dollars, cheers , r33 gts-t. :confused:

You will hear the rear dampers alot more than the front as they are in the car with you. I had pillow ball upper mounts on my set of Tein HA and they were a little noisey. You also get more spring noise with the a/m susp ive noticed. Stick with the Tein's just soften them up.

Teins = Own league = On rails!

I have what SK suggests

The Bilstein shocks and Whiteline springs

Did alot of searching for prices and found Unique Autosports to be the best

I still have the receipt in my pocket...so here's my prcies (be warned though, UAS i think have raised em a bit since)

4 Bilsteins at $225 each - $900

Whiteline lowered springs $225

Sub Total $1195

subtract 10% for being a SAU member $119.50

TOTAL $1075.50

Good luck in the hunt :)

I am thinking of going 300lbs front and 250lbs rear springs on mine.

Anyone got similiar spring rates on theirs? I finially got adjustable front/rear swaybars going on also.

King springs want $250 for the pair custom made. Some people say king springs are rubbish and to get some koni ones instead??

I am thinking of going 300lbs front and 250lbs rear springs on mine.

Anyone got similiar spring rates on theirs? I finially got adjustable front/rear swaybars going on also.

King springs want $250 for the pair custom made. Some people say king springs are rubbish and to get some koni ones instead??

R33GTR or R33GTST?

What are you going to use the car for?

Normal road tyres, or R's, or slicks?

What tracks, if you are doing circuit work?

Any drag at all?

For circuit work we find using more than 200 lbs rears is only necessary on tracks where we run 450 lbs in the front. Philip Island being the highest spring rate we use. I can't imagine needing more than 200 lbs on the road and for drag use closer to 150 lbs is better for launch grip.

:)

R33GTR or R33GTST?

What are you going to use the car for?  

Normal road tyres, or R's, or slicks?

What tracks, if you are doing circuit work?

Any drag at all?

For circuit work we find using more than 200 lbs rears is only necessary on tracks where we run 450 lbs in the front.  Philip Island being the highest spring rate we use.  I can't imagine needing more than 200 lbs on the road and for drag use closer to 150 lbs is better for launch grip.

:)

GTS-T

It will mainly be used for track as I now have another car as a daily driver.

Tracks will be PI, Sandown, Calder and Winton.

Will be using hankook silica 104 for now and then semi comps when the bank account recovers.

There might be a few drags in there but I cant see myself forking out more $$ for nittos just for the drags.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have multiple bottles in a shed that gets hot, and I'm in SEQ, so it's humid. Maybe we test their theory... Anyone have a system to accurately measure moisture content in oil?
    • Yeah, that and throwing away opened, part used, closed back up bottles has got to be bullshit. Brake fluid sits in not-very-well sealed master cylinder reservoirs for literal years and keeps working (albeit we know we should flush it every couple of years - it actually still works). Anything kept in a bottle in the shed with a tightly capped lid has got to be a million times better than what has been in the car for the same length of time.
    • Wait, they're claiming UNOPENED fluid has a shelf life of only 18 months?
    • The plan is to get it out of the shed. The reality may fall some way short. But hope is as cheap as despair as they say. Will go a wide band I think. The coils are ok so maybe I’ll miss the $1500 on the R35 coils etc. Im still on the fence about a trigger kit. The HKS one looks nice ($1k) - not sure how it works with the Link or if Link prefer something else. Oil pressure is fine so I’m not that concerned there. Fuel pressure I’ll have a think about. The IAT got changed for the Link anyway as the old RB26 ones were really slow reacting and pretty poor. The Power FC just worked. Wasn’t terribly refined but it just worked. Probably made a mistake replacing it really. E85 isn’t available locally - it is 100+ kms away which puts it in the too hard basket. Lastly I understand Tunecorp in Perth are pretty good so was probably going there.   As for turbos is there are new age -5 drop in replacement? Turbos have come a long way in 20 years, everyone is big single which is fair enough but I prefer the old school complication of twins. Wasn’t chasing more power (well, not much more) but more efficiency would be ok.
    • I thought I'd share this....the shell is non genuine but they found or built a lot of the genuine parts. Plus, it is by far the best colour scheme of those years, the winfield once was particularly shit https://www.v8sleuth.com.au/written-off-inaugural-godzilla-recreated/
×
×
  • Create New...