Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The R32 looks ok but the Pulsar IMO is pretty ugly. You have to remember that the only reason why the prices are now so low is that the high demand from australia has been lost and the cars have depreciated in value.

someone was saying here somewhere that if you can find a way to make the previous jap owners to sign some papers you can get import approval under the personal import scheme. Don't know if it would be very easy or not coming from a dealer, or if it would work at all but something to think about maybe?

someone was saying here somewhere that if you can find a way to make the previous jap owners to sign some papers you can get import approval under the personal import scheme.  Don't know if it would be very easy or not coming from a dealer, or if it would work at all but something to think about maybe?

i dont think you can even apply for an approval anymore, but getting a proof of purchese before the date is fine with these guys :chairshot

Yes its true if you can get original owner to sign permission forms for car to be imported to Aus you can apply for import approval,doesnt mean you will get it but. These cars arent particularly cheap anyway. I have seen both models go for less than 130000 yen at auction. I have imported many R32gtst some in amazing cond and paid no more than 200000 yen.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That specific one would be an exchange part, meaning I'd have to send mine to them. Plus it looks like a non AWD sump, which won't work for me. There is one or two shops in my country that I can ask to do a sump extension job and it'd most likely end up being cheaper than sending mine to AUS or NZ and getting one back, and quicker too.
    • Rear turbo is leaky, most likely at the oil drain. From what I could see with my boroscope it seemed to have seeped out at the very top of that return hose. Is it possible that the oil climbs up that hose to then leak out? Yup, coolant leak on the hot side of the engine, only noticed after seeing clear rusty residue in the block right from the turbo oil feed downwards to the pan, and red droplets hanging from the pan. No clear sign yet from where it comes, and most of the lines there are hardlines right? Last year, seeing those red drops, I thought it was power steering, will be glad if that is not leaky at least. Another leaking hose I found by chance is the lower of the two heater core hoses coming from the firewall to the back of the head. That one is not too bad to get to if I have to replace.
    • I think for response I'm already kind of out there no? he -5s are not the best pick for that as the Internet tells me. Maybe I should switch to -7s while I still can? Though that almost definitely warrants an engine pull along with the other issues I have.
    • Which I agree with. I don't want or need a high hp straight line car, I want it to be fun on the road and nothing more. Hence why I said my max power goal will be around 500 crank. The few times I drove the car last year I didn't even use high boost and it was already quick enough for me, should have been around 380-400 crank I think (2860-5s at 1-1.1bar).
×
×
  • Create New...