Jump to content
SAU Community

R33: Oil Cooler Installation

Blk33

By Blk33,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 10 months later...
  • Replies 131
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Blk33
Blk33

For normal driving around town the standard heat exchanger fitted between the engine and the oil filter is quite satisfactory. However, 3 or 4 times a year I take the car to Sandown or Calder raceway

Dose Pipe Sutututu
Dose Pipe Sutututu

this should be similar enough: here's a write up I did of my DIY Kit: http://www.trak-life.com/diy-r33-skyline-oil-cooler-with-thermostat/

D.I.Y. Mik
D.I.Y. Mik

I hope this helps those wondering how to hook it up:

Posted Images

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted

It doesnt matter. Its just flowing through it.

Id probly put it in at the top, being pedantic and thinking that it might be easier on the oil pump lol. But either way, it will be at XPsi once its built pressure, so if its already running dont worry about it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 3 months later...
sultanaz Proficient

sultanaz

Posted
Posted

Just abit confused on something.

Sorry i'm new to this oil cooler stuff.

Im going to get a DEFI DIN gauge peice and also looking at getting a Greddy Oil Cooler. Something like this for my R32 gtr. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Greddy-Trust-Oil-Cooler-Kit-Nissan-Skyline-GT-R-R32-/170813641917?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c54954bd

Can someone please explain how id run it ? What hose goes to what and what adapter goes to what... This link has some difference peices that are confusing me to the pictures posted on page 1..

Sorry about the anoying question but id really appreciate it if someone can help me out .

Link to comment
Share on other sites
rehab2010 Proficient

rehab2010

Posted
Posted

Damn the RB26 and the lack of space.

Anybody uses a simple sandwich plate without the relocation kit on the RB26 - would love to see your installation pics.

Got a 10-row cooler and this adapter - hoses and connectors will be purchased later on, when I figure out where to mount the core - there just is stuff all room - even a drivers guard is full of hoses and bov's(I think) - passenger side guard seems so far away.

Would appreciate R33 GT-R installation pics.

post-62747-0-66574600-1336037913_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 year later...
  • 8 months later...
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

It is a good idea to disconnect the ignitor or coil packs and crank the engine a bit to get oil through it. Remember not to continuously crank it for too long or you will fry the starter. 20 seconds on and 20 seconds off is fairly safe

My cooler is setup nearly exactly the same as John's. I havent seen that bracket on many 33's. I had to drill a hole in my carbon cooling panel for the top stud/nut so not really sure if this is standard or what

20131107_181228_zps8faf2d18.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
dan.1337 Proficient

dan.1337

Posted
Posted

It is a good idea to disconnect the ignitor or coil packs and crank the engine a bit to get oil through it. Remember not to continuously crank it for too long or you will fry the starter. 20 seconds on and 20 seconds off is fairly safe

^ Thanks for that.

I mounted my oil cooler on the weekend. Will just need to find time to connect up all the lines and finish it off.

12061794176_ee81768035_c.jpg

12061789846_029fa788d1_c.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
AMR33 Mentor

AMR33

Posted
Posted

Bit of a noob question here. So in the photo of the kit there are three hoses.

My understanding is that one hose connects the adaptor to the remote filter (So oil out of the block to the filter)

Then one hose goes from the filter to the cooler

Then one hose goes from the cooler back to the block

Is my understanding correct?

Cheers for the write up

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Blk33 Community Regular

Blk33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Bit of a noob question here. So in the photo of the kit there are three hoses.

My understanding is that one hose connects the BLOCK adaptor to the remote filter (So oil out of the block to the filter) - YES

Then one hose goes from the filter to the cooler - YES

Then one hose goes from the cooler back to the block ADAPTER - YES

Is my understanding correct?

Cheers for the write up

Your understanding is correct!

Just ensure you get the correct hose orientation on the block adapter and the remote filter adapter.

I can't remember the orientation, but see the diagrams on page 1. I got them wrong first time around.

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites
AMR33 Mentor

AMR33

Posted
Posted

Your understanding is correct!

Just ensure you get the correct hose orientation on the block adapter and the remote filter adapter.

I can't remember the orientation, but see the diagrams on page 1. I got them wrong first time around.

Cheers

Thanks mate, So you mean ensure that the IN and OUT fittings on the adaptor match the same on the filter yeah?

Cheers again

Link to comment
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted (edited)

Use bulkhead fittings to go from engine bay to outside, means you have to buy some extra ends for the braided line, but prevents rubbing and having to cut holes (or run the lines further to existing openings)

Mine are run with short braid from the oil cooler sandwich plate, to hardlines that go along the chassis rail to bulkhead fittings at the front to 2 more small braided lines to the cooler itself. The hardlines were free, and not completely necessary, but they just prevent things rubbing and look pretty neat

Bulkhead Fittings : Mine are ones for hydraulic hoses so are steel instead of aluminium. Might be cheaper for steel ones. Pirtek or any hydraulic hose shop should have them

Edited by 89CAL
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 squeaking sound from passenger front area

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Suspension bush. Got urethane bushes in the upper arms?
    • bcozican
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By bcozican · Posted

      thanks for heads up on actuators - will sort something as back up or solution as yes dont need that have enough trouble but no doubt some addition of something to spares boxes is required yes have a clue about WTAC but nothing has been officially put out yet so will wait to see exact details Pro class is, has been and will become a draw card for lap records and one off builds for show and thats about it I think - be interesting to see how open they make it Pro am is the old Pro in reality Open class will be split into 2 with slicks and 050's with no doubt slight variances in allowable drivers and changes in aero Clubsprint + apparently a true street class   They have to and are refreshing it all and bringing things up to current standards and need to 100% adhere to rules because whether people like it or not / or say it or not - for alot of competitors it is sheep stations and has been for a while when Im getting told I was illegal because i cut my rear bumper too high and yet others where in the grey areas of legality with everything from engines, suspension, ride heights and more serious influences it actually got quite out of control and heated this year so as much as I may be impacted by some of the changes and prob spit the dummy when I have to spend money changing things I think its a good thing for all
    • SeanR32GtSt
      R34 squeaking sound from passenger front area

      By SeanR32GtSt · Posted

      I can’t tell if it’s suspension related or maybe wheel bearing or motor mount.  IMG_6209.MOV
    • MBS206
      RB30 Struggles from idle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Start with a multimeter, and see if you're getting power at the TPS. There should be a manual for your car somewhere on these forums and it'll have the info for what closed TPS signal voltage is, and how it should sweep to full throttle. Same as for other sensors / valves.   Have you checked things like your base timing etc? See if anything looks amiss there too?
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Calling all audiophiles

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      here are 2x options to consider: https://www.selby.com.au/price-promise/tonewinner-sw-d6000-subwoofer.html https://www.apollohifi.com.au/svs-pb-3000-ported-subwoofer-black-ash-pre-order.html I'm waiting for a good BF/CM sale and will pull the trigger on a new sub, I do like the SVS PB-3000 (13") but you could nearly buy 2x Tonewinner D6000s (15")
×
×
  • Create New...