Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can you knock these out for me, measurements may be off a touch as did them with shocks still on car & there was minimum room...

Note: springs are progressive, top 5 coils are wound tight, others are normal.

Fronts

Lower O.D. = 89.3mm

Upper O.D. = 89.3mm

Wire thickness = 12mm

No. Coils = 11.125

270 lbs/inch (4.8kg/mm)

Rears

Lower O.D. = 85.6mm

Upper O.D. = 87mm

Wire thickness = 11mm

No. Coils = 11.125

210 lbs/inch (3.7kg/mm)

thanks heaps!

Cheers

Gary

  • Replies 378
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Cheers

Gary

wow, ok I think I've stuffed up a measurement then because mine are rock hard & those spring rates are close to stock (z32).

Im assuming the springs are progressive as the top coils are wound a lot closer than the rest but perhaps Im wrong, any suggestions where I've messed up?

Coilovers are HKS Hipermax's & from what I can tell the lowest rates available (across whole range for z32) where fr=7, rr=6.

cheers, tim

wow, ok I think I've stuffed up a measurement then because mine are rock hard & those spring rates are close to stock (z32).

Im assuming the springs are progressive as the top coils are wound a lot closer than the rest but perhaps Im wrong, any suggestions where I've messed up?

Coilovers are HKS Hipermax's & from what I can tell the lowest rates available (across whole range for z32) where fr=7, rr=6.

cheers, tim

Can you post a picture Tim? That may show me what the progression is.

Otherwise you will have to measure the gaps between the coils. They should measure something like this,

3 mm / 5 mm / 5 mm / 5 mm / 15 mm / 20 mm / 20 mm / 20 mm / 20 mm /15 mm / 3 mm

Cheers

Gary

Can you post a picture Tim? That may show me what the progression is.

Otherwise you will have to measure the gaps between the coils. They should measure something like this,

3 mm / 5 mm / 5 mm / 5 mm / 15 mm / 20 mm / 20 mm / 20 mm / 20 mm /15 mm / 3 mm

Cheers

Gary

yeah no problem, will double check measurements & snap some photos over the weekend.

thanks again.

this is rough but here it is for front springs hks hyper d's.

there are a few larger progressive rate coils nearer the top all wound in the one coil. there are 3 of them. Coil ID is 1)66mm 2)71mm 3)66mm

Coil ID = 61/61 mm

Wire OD = 12 mm

# of Coils = 10

could you work this out for me Gary.

Cheers!

Can you post a picture Tim? That may show me what the progression is.

Ok Gary heres a couple photos with spacing included on them.

Fronts:

Coil Dia. = 12mm

Top/Bottom O.D. = 89.5mm/89.5mm

No. of Coils = 11.125 (about half of the last coil is shaved so that spring sits flat)

post-32210-1216761890_thumb.jpg

Rears:

Coil Dia. = 11mm

Top/Bottom O.D. = 86.7mm/87.7mm

No. of Coils = 11.125 (about half of the last coil is shaved so that spring sits flat)

post-32210-1216761902_thumb.jpg

Have included Dia. of every coil on the rears as the change was more noticable, can get the fronts too if need be.

thanks for the help.

cheers, tim

Ok Gary heres a couple photos with spacing included on them.

Fronts:

Coil Dia. = 12mm

Top/Bottom O.D. = 89.5mm/89.5mm

No. of Coils = 11.125 (about half of the last coil is shaved so that spring sits flat)

640 lbs/inch (11.5kg/mm)

post-32210-1216761890_thumb.jpg

Rears:

Coil Dia. = 11mm

Top/Bottom O.D. = 86.7mm/87.7mm

No. of Coils = 11.125 (about half of the last coil is shaved so that spring sits flat)

475 lbs/inch (8.5kg/mm)

post-32210-1216761902_thumb.jpg

Have included Dia. of every coil on the rears as the change was more noticable, can get the fronts too if need be.

thanks for the help.

cheers, tim

this is rough but here it is for front springs hks hyper d's.

there are a few larger progressive rate coils nearer the top all wound in the one coil. there are 3 of them. Coil ID is 1)66mm 2)71mm 3)66mm

Coil ID = 61/61 mm

Wire OD = 12 mm

# of Coils = 10

could you work this out for me Gary.

Cheers!

Assuming 7 active coils (3 progressive)

580 lbs/inch (10.3kg/mm)

Cheers

Gary

Front Coil

========

Upper OD = 113.95

Lower OD = 108.25

# of Coils = 9.25

Wire OD = 12.85

Rear Coil

=======

Upper OD = 125.00

Lower OD = 112.25

# of Coils = 5.25

Wire OD = 13.7

Thanks. :-)

Front Coil

========

Upper OD = 113.95

Lower OD = 108.25

# of Coils = 9.25

Wire OD = 12.85

150 lbs/inch (2.7kg/mm)

I assume it's progressive wound, to get the correct effective rate you need to count the number of active coils, there will be around 4 to 5 coils that are inactive once the weight of the car is applied.

Rear Coil

=======

Upper OD = 125.00

Lower OD = 112.25

# of Coils = 5.25

Wire OD = 13.7

350 lbs/inch (6.3kg/mm)

Thanks. :-)

Cheers

Gary

SYDNEY KID CAN YOU CONTACT ME !!! YOU`VE SENT ME THE WRONG SUSPENSION KIT. I HAVE R34 NOT R33. STOP IGONRING ME PLEASE.

Nobody is ignoring you. We get 40 to 50 PM's and emails a day, sometimes I have to actually do some work so I don't get to answer every PM and email every day. But I can assure you every single PM and every single email gets answered in the order in which we receive them. Sticking posts in innapropriate threads won't help you jump the que.

Cheers

Gary

top: 115mm

bottom: 75mm

# of coils: 9 and a bit

wire: 14mm

thanks

230 lbs/inch (4.1kg/mm)

If they are rears then they are most likely progressive, like this

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/up...61890_thumb.jpg

If yours are like that, then you need to tell me how many coils are close together, they are inactive coils. To work out the real spring rate I need to know the number of active coils.

Cheers

Gary

  • 3 weeks later...

Coil OD = 125/100 mm

Wire OD = 14 mm

# of Coils = 7.5 turns

Coil OD = 110/90 mm

Wire OD = 13 mm

# of Coils = 7.125 turns

Coil OD = 125 mm

Wire OD = 15 mm

# of Coils = 9 turns

Coil ID = 65 mm

Wire OD = 13 mm

# of Coils = 6.75 turns

NB. 3 ODs and 1 ID

Can i please get them in KGmm and Lb"

Thanks Heaps

James

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...