Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by [ryan]

bah

the globe is round

it could be on any angle really

the edge on the surround around the of the light is angled, but the light itself still projects forward

see diagram

The surround ALSO helps project the light forward so if the surround is angled too much above horizon you'll blind on coming cars.

Did you know modern RHD cars also have the focus towards passenger side of the road to help illuminate signs and pedestrians?

  • 4 months later...

RE: HID lighting in your car.

I have the system hooked up in my car but cant seem to source a spare gobe, as one blew.

Do you have any idea where I could get a spare globe from? The globes are pictured in the right of this picture? Is this similiar to your settup?

PM PLEASE !!! with any help

Originally posted by CC

RE: HID lighting in your car.

I have the system hooked up in my car but cant seem to source a spare gobe, as one blew.

Do you have any idea where I could get a spare globe from?

I have been thinking about adding this conversion to my 'to do' list - but this point (above) is putting me off.

What are the options? are you restricted to one type of bulb?

I don't want to get back to australia and find that I can't get replacements. Or find, 5 years later, that they're no longer made.

Thoughts?

  • 7 months later...

Hey guys

I thought when u comply R34s they take their xenons off cos ADR reckon they are not up to our 'high standards' cos they are not self cleaning and self leveling.

How do u guys get your HIDs to self clean? Or do the cops just ignore it and let it go?

Hey guys

I thought when u comply R34s they take their xenons off cos ADR reckon they are not up to our 'high standards' cos they are not self cleaning and self leveling.

How do u guys get your HIDs to self clean? Or do the cops just ignore it and let it go?

I think you've just got to go through the right complier. I'm not too sure on this, but I'd say they'd have a spare set of the standard lights and swap those in for the first rego, and then put your Xenons in straight after.

As Xenons are getting more and more popular, I'd say the police wouldn't even think to check if they were self levelling / cleaning. I could be wrong on this though.

I have the phillips HID system which came with the car (23,000 volts). Did not realise how expensive the systems are but they sure do change night into day. The 2 pictures I posted are of the lights mounted on the front bar and the 2nd pic is the switch which i had to wire in to use the lights.

They were ment to be switched on and off with a remote control which did not come with the car. I had to rewire the control box to bypass the remote sensor and then the switch simply provides an earth for the relays to turn on.

Though one of my globes has blown too. Not sure where to get one from either.

Damo

I have the phillips HID system which came with the car (23,000 volts).  Did not realise how expensive the systems are but they sure do change night into day.  The 2 pictures I posted are of the lights mounted on the front bar and the 2nd pic is the switch which i had to wire in to use the lights.  

They were ment to be switched on and off with a remote control which did not come with the car.  I had to rewire the control box to bypass the remote sensor and then the switch simply provides an earth for the relays to turn on.  

Though one of my globes has blown too.  Not sure where to get one from either.

Damo

NICE !!

The globes can be sourced from SRS Auto - www.srsauto.com

I searched for 6 months to find a globe - they are difficult to find in Australia

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LS is a good motor, but it hurts my soul when I see it in a RB. Guess it fixes the oiling issues lol.
    • I'm confused. Does this qualify as "Gregging" or are you somehow avoiding the Gregging?
    • More assembly going on, with all sorts of "bolt right on bro" scenarios going on here. Smartly, PTV clearance was checked. And I say smartly because it turns out that the intake was 0.009" from piston meeting valve. This is 0.23mm. This is very not okay. A fast meeting was facilitated between engine builder in Australia and engine builder in the USA which was actually incredibly helpful and constructive actually, various ideas thrown around to get around this issue including: 1) Retard the cam timing which would have brought the exhaust valve closer to meeting piston (it was 0.065") which was uncomfortably close to begin with, and change the cam profile making it 'laggier' 2) Much larger head gaskets which would reduce compression, but half the point of this was to increase compression. 3) New set of pistons ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) 4) All of the above 5) Get ghetto The concept is you get sticky sandpaper and stick it back to a valve, slightly larger than the valve you/I'm using, like say from a LS3/rectangle port head. You now have a very super advanced flycutting tool to modify your pistons in your block. Then you install it in your head, and attach the other end of the head to a drill. Then you just replicate your valve smashing into a piston with your spinning drill.   This is the result. Repeat many times. It is strongly recommended you have some kind of fixed stop when doing this for extremely obvious reasons because if you press too hard then you're well into apocalyptic repercussion land. The minimum clearance on the intake valve is now 0.075" this is still in the "Too close to be really comfortable" and into "It should be fine" land. Supposedly in the real world the clearances will be slightly bigger. Guess this is what happens when people push envelopes for N/A engines instead of adding boost! Time to move onto the new, upgraded, higher ratio roller rockers from Yellaterra, all tapped and threaded with a stronger bolt for better stability. Very nice. Lets see how they fit. For f**ks sake. Time to bring the grinder out for these aftermarket, machined and CNC'd heads. Looks like the new, beefier rocker from YellaTerra has gone from Bolt on part to "Bolt on part". Well, lets see how this bolt on crank scraper and windage tray goes then, shall we? There actually is more clearance than they specify for this thing, but seeing it all move as you check it is terrifying when you see it all so very very very very nearly hit things. But after all, this is what the item is designed to do after all and actually did bolt on perfectly and have enough clearance to everything and some very clear and direct instructions. So +1 to Improved Racing I suppose. As above with the windage tray on. Photo of breaker bar wonkiness for added lols. Next up: Oil pump/front cover/water pump/sump and then it's time to actually install the heads, pushrods, head bolts, valve cover gaskets and such is all there and ready to go. (except the oil pump bolts which were previously longer for more clearance with the previously perfectly installed double row timing chain). There's definitely a sense that someone other than us has been here before and done everything perfectly, or at least considered it and came up with working solutions. Perhaps the previous cam was 6deg advanced to avoid PTV issues with the milled stock heads? In any case when I attempt to sell this stuff the buyers are going to be very directly informed.
    • my catch can is pretty easy to empty but it overflows due to the blowby/crank case pressure etc. max I have drained is ~600ml even with a ~2.3L capacity. So it is not just about having to drain it out its the mess it makes down the firewall and under the car and rear passenger tyre from the overflow oil being blasted by screamer + air in general. Ending up on the ground cleaning the oil up and having oil on your arms when everyone else can chill and watch the other sessions gets old fast
    • Yeah - the secret learned a long time ago is that the RB likes to belch oil out the covers, and/or starve the pump because it drowns the head in oil, because the upflow of crankcase gases from piston blowby comes up through the oil drain holes in the block and prevents the oil from flowing back down. The external vents from sump are about creating an alternative path/much more XS area for gas flow to decrease the gas velocity up through the oil drains and allow the oil to get back down. So, it's not about pressure at all. It is about flows - gas up and oil down - or when it's not working, gas up and oil not going where it is supposed to after it arrives at the top, except out through the cam cover vents. And regardless of whether the catch can is vented to air or vented to the turbo inlet, it must still be vented because a sealed system would blow out the crank seals, or something equally bad.
×
×
  • Create New...