Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Would prefer not to mention price publically, as i was looked after (mate's friend) and still under quoted, as it must of been their first R33 they painted :P.

If anyone is interested in a quote just call Marcus on 0421169969.

  • 6 months later...

:O

Didn't realize that the thread had been re-opened, as i didn't get my usual e-mail notifications.

Well thanks for all the +ve feedback, it is really appreciated. All up, i am extremely happy with the cosmetic results and also my mechanical upgrades too :D.

I fully understand and appreciate that we all have different tastes. What looks awesome to me may not suit someone else and vis-versa, but at the end of the day only the owner needs to be satisfied with his/her work ;) .

I have decided to continue work on my "SKYLINE" backlight project. Should be ready and installed by this weekend.

Here are a few progress pics, with a progress report :).

After the spare "SKYLINE" facia was colour matched, i first used my Dremal tool to cut out the rear of the facia. In hin-sight it may have been better to complete the unit first, before painting, but time was an issue.

post-1811-1139399393.jpg

Then i used a sharp blade, off a Stanly knife, to gently cut off the paint from each letter. (Not as hard/long as i thought it would be :)).

post-1811-1139399447.jpg

Using a Jaycar "bread board" and my electronic experience, i positioned two hi-intensity LEDs in between each letter. This was done to try and minimize the focus of the LEDs. YES, it is damn bright :D; i may disconnect one wire and only use one LED between each letter.

post-1811-1139399493.jpg

It is now ready to be secured into position, then i will coat it with sicaflex to ensure it is as water resistant as the original.

post-1811-1139399537.jpg

Only one question left...

Do i hook it up to my parkers, so when i turn the h/lights on it will remain on, or do i hook it to my brake lights, so it turns off and on with my brake? :D:P

Where is a good place to look for colours and codes?

I used various paint sample books, Troy (ylwgtr2) was a GREAT help. Also kept a look out, on the road, at all red/burgundy cars that i passed. And asked friends for advise, thanks Pete :P.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...