Jump to content
SAU Community

Max power with Stock RB26DET?


Recommended Posts

Hey,

Building a GT-R for a mate, he has a huge turbo for it .... We are planning to leave it stock with water to aid, and some HKS Twin power CDI ;)

What will be our limits...

Sydneykid - can CDI be hooked up to the D-Jetro ?

Let's just say T88-33D with everything else to match, but standard engine.

Sydneykid might know, we are aiming for 400kw standard engine, 1.5bar boost.

I am pretty sure it will hold strong for quarter mile run's.. what do you think Sydneykid or Steve on the forums from WA.

Also, will the oil pump flow enough oil for that power level for drag use only.. not constant painfull thrashing.. This will be just for 10 second's and then cooled down and switched off :P

Also, Is it a heat factor that limits the standard engine to 400kw? Ifso, then it shouldnt be a problem with the water injection..

10's should be as easy as i think .... lets just see.

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

]']i've read up b4 on a magazine

there was a R32 GTR running t78 with 1.3 made 350KWat4 wheels

but the engine lasted 1month..

so i guess it's possible but it wont last long

no, that would of been setup really crap and not how i want it..

looks like you guys dont know what water can really do...

dont matter,but thanks, looks like 350kw is ok.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My god Blitz i didnt realise it was so easy to run a 10 all you need is a big turbo and water and we can all run 10s woohoo(oh yeah and a ceferio_pwa tune as we all tune crap)

:P:rofl:;):rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

note**everything else to match**

im talking engine here! nothing about fuel supply/ecu/tuning/igntion etc.

im talking the how much power is the short block really good for, looks like ill have to wait for the proffesionals to answer :bananaman

Link to comment
Share on other sites

from this thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...d.php?p=1374306

Std GTR rods are good at 400- 450kw@wheels and up to 9000rpm.....above that level we usually replace em with something better, but in saying that, we have never broken one either....they are a short, tough little rod....

Hope that helps, although this figure is only regarding rods.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok so std rods are good, but the 450rwkws 9,000rpm example is that using std rod bolts and without any sort of stress relieving?

Id say what would kill a std RB26 quickly is the combinaiton of healthy power, your chasing 400rwkws, combined with 1.5bar boost pressure and the fact that the std RB26 will need plenty of revs to get a T88 on song.

So revs, 1.5bar and 400rwkws on a std RB26. LOL RB26s are strong, but around the traps you always seem to hear that when they give up its a bottom end bearing thing, followed by pistons. Its never crank or rods.

Good lucj, just make sure you have the money to fix the thing, if you dont then perhaps spend what money you do have on making the thing live:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok so std rods are good, but the 450rwkws 9,000rpm example is that using std rod bolts and without any sort of stress relieving?

Id say what would kill a std RB26 quickly is the combinaiton of healthy power, your chasing 400rwkws, combined with 1.5bar boost pressure and the fact that the std RB26 will need plenty of revs to get a T88 on song.

So revs, 1.5bar and 400rwkws on a std RB26.  LOL RB26s are strong, but around the traps you always seem to hear that when they give up its a bottom end bearing thing, followed by pistons. Its never crank or rods.

Good lucj, just make sure you have the money to fix the thing, if you dont then perhaps spend what money you do have on making the thing live:)

We might change the pistons, we arn't sure yet.

I doubt we will get to run 1.5bar if we are going to go past 400kw at less boost.

Most likely the rev limiter will be set to ~8500 to help the motor live long.

I want to see how the 33D redline's ( on a dyno ) the rear is pretty small if you see it yourself .....hmmm i think we should leave it at that, enough info is already here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok so std rods are good, but the 450rwkws 9,000rpm example is that using std rod bolts and without any sort of stress relieving?

Id say what would kill a std RB26 quickly is the combinaiton of healthy power, your chasing 400rwkws, combined with 1.5bar boost pressure and the fact that the std RB26 will need plenty of revs to get a T88 on song.

So revs, 1.5bar and 400rwkws on a std RB26.  LOL RB26s are strong, but around the traps you always seem to hear that when they give up its a bottom end bearing thing, followed by pistons. Its never crank or rods.

Good lucj, just make sure you have the money to fix the thing, if you dont then perhaps spend what money you do have on making the thing live:)

Thanks!

Heh, this guy has money alright :Pimp2:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

have you concidered it will take more than just a motor to run a 10

ie gearbox (at this level becomes an issue)

you'll need some nice tyres

and a suspension setup to suit

I can only think of one guy that ran a 10 regularly, wreckhead and his making 450awkw and had to run gas to do so ,he also had a customised box and i believe it was a similar turbo setup, but to the best of my knowledge quiet a bit of time went into to this car and money.

ps if this guy has the money why not do it properly the first time

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks!

Heh, this guy has money alright  :Pimp2:

if he has such vast reserves of cash then why in gods name is he asking you to build him a GTR? and why is he too cheap to beef up the bottom end. would seem logical to me when you are asking more than double the original power output.

I can't wait for this project either.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if he has such vast reserves of cash then why in gods name is he asking you to build him a GTR? and why is he too cheap to beef up the bottom end. would seem logical to me when you are asking more than double the original power output.

I can't wait for this project either.

He will test the RB26's maximum power output :)!

That is why!

When it gets destroyed (IF IT GETS DESTROYED. I DOUBT IT!) he is rebuilding it.

Why am i doing it ? Because bolt ons are easy,and we have idea's!

I cant wait.

bye!!! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Another thought, are those actually NEO cams made for the NEO head (shim over bucket) and not the non NEO head (hydraulic lifters)?
    • This is the first time I've checked my fuel pressure and I've got no idea what the pressure was before this. So I'm not sure if this is 100% the true cause of my idling problems atm, but this high pressure is my first clue to something that is "out of spec" according to the workshop manual. Also, you can see in the video, the haltech tries to get the afr target and it does maintain it at 14.2. So I would assume the afr is fine? I have to dissagree with the cluster comment. I don't think it's a bad solder joint. There's nothing wrong with my Nismo cluster because I swapped out the cluster to my old nissan one and it does the same rpm glitchy thing. So to me, thats the signal coming from the ecu that is farked. I bet if i were to put both those clusters in a working r34 gtt, it would work as it should.    I just took this video now to show what happens to the fuel pressure when I remove the vac lines on both the FPR and damper. It remains at 50psi:   Can definitly feel theres vacuum. No aftermarket reg, just stock one. I reckon its the signal coming from the ecu. So correct me if im wrong, cas send signal to ecu to show rpm of engine (and thats what we see on the haltech software) then ecu sends out ignition and injector pulses ect ect, and then spits out a signal for the rpm gauge on the cluster? Makes me wonder if something in the injectors electrically (solenoids?) or something is causing some weird feedback to the cluster signal.  Yes! They did. And I also think they are related/connected to this idle issue.  Haha sorry about it. I just filmed it with my phone. Let me know if you want me to get something els specific on vid. Yeah it's really odd. I would like to try and diagnose the injector wiring next. Don't know if that requires an oscilloscope? 
    • Hi Bud, Yeah that's the next step, going to get these checked. they were set "bang on" when it was built and its always been present. They may well be wrong though!
    • @Toff if it's a NEO and it's making the noises you're describing, it sounds like you need to work on the valve clearances and measure/replace shims as required.
    • Thread revival, apologies! I have a similar issue, strange noise that appears shortly after starting the car, fluctuates a bit with RPM... If you bring the revs up the noise sort of follows / trails behind and then settles if that makes sense? Engine was built years ago with CAMTECH 268 Cams (9mm lift i believe) and the rest of the upgrade kit with the springs and retainers. Can you upgrade the pulley itself, if the spring is too weak (same as on the VG30 Lumps) or is it pointing towards another issue?   Cheers!
×
×
  • Create New...