Jump to content
SAU Community

Looking for new workshop!

danh

By danh,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
What castrol oil should I be putting in my engine - it's 98 R33 gts-t ppl?? Castrol Synthetic? which one though - also has anyone used the Castrol Magnatec?

how hard are you going to push it? I know a few people on here use formula R 10W60 and i used it in my old GTI-R. I know use motul chrono 300V 10W40 and think it's pretty good. something synthetic in 10W40 should be ok. everyone has a preference though.

also, say Hi to Eli for me, tell him I said his work on the driveshaft was magic, car went very well at the track :)

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

no, 5W40 should be ok too. nissan reccomend 7.5W30 when the cars were new. it just seemed reasonable to be that for a little more protection 10W40 would be pretty good. yeah, I don't know that our temperatures vary enough here through the various seasons to warrant a winter and summer oil like people use in the UK etc.

I'm sure 5W40 would be quite good. the main thing with oil is to change it regularly. it's no good having the best oil around if you only change it every two years,

Links Veteran

Links

Posted
Posted

^^ Will do mate, not driving it overly hard, this car's cost me alot of money.. so i'm not in the game of breaking things..

Driving it to enjoy - occasionally giving it a bit, gonna take it kinda (yeah right) easy until I can get my A/F checked as it's backfiring a bit off throttle after a thrash.. i'll ask him what he's putting in - might get 10W40 put in.. but i'll see what he says..

Going to be changing oil every 5,000kms/6 months, whichever comes first..

danh Community Regular

danh

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well im picking up the R32 GTR next week,

i bought it from a dealer who will prob not have done much in the way of servicing it.

so i'm wondering what sort of things should i get the mechanic to look at/change/replace...??

and what should i expect to pay for this servicing?

cheers

Dan

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted

I'm feeling lazy, so I will just quote myself :(

Does it have a remote oil filter? If not, get a workshop to do the engine oil swap and filter swap as its a bit of a pig.

All the other fluids are easy enough to replace, but set aside a fair whack of change as you should probably change:

   * Front and rear diffs

   * Gearbox

   * Transfer case

   * Powersteering

   * Radiator coolant

   * Brake coolant

   * Clutch (if you can be bothered)

Then there are all the consumables: brake pads, brake rotors, spark plugs (personally I'd get copper), etc. New air filter/pods is a good idea as most of the ones I have seen ex-Japan are filthy. Also look at changing your fuel filter and getting your injectors cleaned.

There are more, but I have a headache and that's all that comes to mind at the moment

It really depends what your comfortable with. Personally I want to know that everything has been replaced and is up to (my) spec.

Lucien.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that ne side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • 32.det
      My R32 Money Pit & The Headaches That Come With It

      By 32.det · Posted

      Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • GTSBoy
      My R32 Money Pit & The Headaches That Come With It

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
    • Duncan
      My R32 Money Pit & The Headaches That Come With It

      By Duncan · Posted

      Don't assume the AC relay signal from the ECU is +, some models including Stagea use an earth trigger.
    • 32.det
      My R32 Money Pit & The Headaches That Come With It

      By 32.det · Posted

      Hey good to see you on the forums! Haha Considering this cars past with electronic issues I am leaning towards it being a wiring fault somewhere in the engine bay. When testing the ac relay in the fuse box there was no earth trigger. I am probably going to try "bench test" the compressor by giving it direct ground and power to see if i can hear the ac clutch click otherwise I will be pretty sure I have a dead compressor. If it does work then I will be tracing some wiring it seems.
×
×
  • Create New...