Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

As the subject says, the poor ScibyLine has been losing power lately, and it's rather annoying. Any suggestions would be most helpful.

* Car is mostly stock in terms of performance... has a cat-back Apex'i RS zorst and an Apex'i Power funnel filter, replacing a HKS super happy filter thingy.

* Changes made lately: Put new filter on and cleaned and de-meshed the AFM. Next lot was new plugs, new gearbox oil, new fuel filter (new filter was because of the power issues, thought it might have been the culprit, no such luck). ECU has been reset a couple of times, made no real changes/improvements.

* Symptoms: Idles rougher than normal, very thub-thub-thub as opposed to the usual smoothness. When accelerating from a stop, there seems to be a hole in the power, ie: the throttle at 50% gives the same acceleration as 30%, not as responsive. You have to give it a bootful to get past this hole and then the turbo will start boosting... although even when the turbo is boosting, it still doesn't have the same power as it used to. Another strange one is when coming to the lights to stop, I put it into neutral, clutch out, brakes on gently, just before it comes to a complete stop, rpm dips and the car phsycially shakes, almost like I've still got the clutch in and I'm engine-braking and letting it stall out...

NB: The clutch plate is dying, but I can usually tell when it's the cause of loss of forward motion. :P

I'm not going to put forth my ideas on what could be the problem, as I don't want to colour people's opinions and ideas... but any suggestions/tips, etc, would be excellent.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7936-power-loss-problems-on-the-scibyline/
Share on other sites

Sounds like something may be stopping it from breathing.. The filter is brand new and clean, so that rules out the filter being too dirty. something may be blocking the intake, perhaps, check the filter again. If it's not that, maybe it could be the fuel pump?

Hey old timer. :P nah, no FMIC yet... broke as, badly need a new clutch first... the stock one is like almost mirror finished. :P

K, ran diags before, normal tests claim "ok", but I ran the O2 sensor realtime... and it was flashing on (for "lean") every second, like: lean, rich, lean, rich, lean, rich... like it was undecided... I decided to deviate from the "Run at 2k rpm" run and revved it up through the rpms, and it was about 50/50 lean/rich... it makes me wonder if my o2 sensor is buggered, because even sitting there, I can take my foot off the noise pedal and it'll pop and fart, indicating to me that it's still running rich, as Nissan programmed it to do.

Any opinions on this?

it could have something to do with removing the screens

it changes the reading the afm gives to the ecu

so try putting the screens back and if that fixes it u will need

a mappable ecu (power fc or similar)

to remove the screens and have it run proparly

sounds like AFM but before you dump it try sparing it with carby cleaner its safe and it will get any gunk of the wire

the afm is a self cleaning unit but it still sometimes gets contaminated

removing the mesh makes no diff its there to stop lage particles entering the afm from either side

hope this helps

Originally posted by slip

mate put the mesh back on your afm, its there for a reason.  did you oil the filter?  I think the 02 sensor doing that is normal, if it was always rich or always lean you'd have a problem.  (note: i think)

Er... a bit hard to put the mesh back on, it's been literally ripped out... only the rear one though, the front one is still there...just like quite a few others have done, with no issues... *shrugs*... filter is dry type... you would think that considering the whole thing about nissan programming the skylines to be on the rich side, it would constantly state rich, or at least, for most of the time.

Probably also should mention that I demeshed the afm because I thought it may help with the problems I've been experiencing (ie, I was having the problems before I did the mesh), although it doesn't seem that way... perhaps I'll borrow a full afm from someone and see what changes it makes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just got to work and skimmed through 61508 and 61511. I was surprised the CSA adopted both, but neither are enforced. To recap what I read, it states that in a perfect world, they should be segregated but they acknowledge that this is not industry standard and clearly mention that they allow mixing of safety and non-safety. 61511 also mentions software segregation like AB does in their safety PLC's.   Now if only I could go back to control, let alone safety over comms. In my current line of work, we're only allowed monitoring and basic control over comms. Everything critical must still be hard wired as much as possible. 
    • I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...