Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

As the subject says, the poor ScibyLine has been losing power lately, and it's rather annoying. Any suggestions would be most helpful.

* Car is mostly stock in terms of performance... has a cat-back Apex'i RS zorst and an Apex'i Power funnel filter, replacing a HKS super happy filter thingy.

* Changes made lately: Put new filter on and cleaned and de-meshed the AFM. Next lot was new plugs, new gearbox oil, new fuel filter (new filter was because of the power issues, thought it might have been the culprit, no such luck). ECU has been reset a couple of times, made no real changes/improvements.

* Symptoms: Idles rougher than normal, very thub-thub-thub as opposed to the usual smoothness. When accelerating from a stop, there seems to be a hole in the power, ie: the throttle at 50% gives the same acceleration as 30%, not as responsive. You have to give it a bootful to get past this hole and then the turbo will start boosting... although even when the turbo is boosting, it still doesn't have the same power as it used to. Another strange one is when coming to the lights to stop, I put it into neutral, clutch out, brakes on gently, just before it comes to a complete stop, rpm dips and the car phsycially shakes, almost like I've still got the clutch in and I'm engine-braking and letting it stall out...

NB: The clutch plate is dying, but I can usually tell when it's the cause of loss of forward motion. :P

I'm not going to put forth my ideas on what could be the problem, as I don't want to colour people's opinions and ideas... but any suggestions/tips, etc, would be excellent.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7936-power-loss-problems-on-the-scibyline/
Share on other sites

Sounds like something may be stopping it from breathing.. The filter is brand new and clean, so that rules out the filter being too dirty. something may be blocking the intake, perhaps, check the filter again. If it's not that, maybe it could be the fuel pump?

Hey old timer. :P nah, no FMIC yet... broke as, badly need a new clutch first... the stock one is like almost mirror finished. :P

K, ran diags before, normal tests claim "ok", but I ran the O2 sensor realtime... and it was flashing on (for "lean") every second, like: lean, rich, lean, rich, lean, rich... like it was undecided... I decided to deviate from the "Run at 2k rpm" run and revved it up through the rpms, and it was about 50/50 lean/rich... it makes me wonder if my o2 sensor is buggered, because even sitting there, I can take my foot off the noise pedal and it'll pop and fart, indicating to me that it's still running rich, as Nissan programmed it to do.

Any opinions on this?

it could have something to do with removing the screens

it changes the reading the afm gives to the ecu

so try putting the screens back and if that fixes it u will need

a mappable ecu (power fc or similar)

to remove the screens and have it run proparly

sounds like AFM but before you dump it try sparing it with carby cleaner its safe and it will get any gunk of the wire

the afm is a self cleaning unit but it still sometimes gets contaminated

removing the mesh makes no diff its there to stop lage particles entering the afm from either side

hope this helps

Originally posted by slip

mate put the mesh back on your afm, its there for a reason.  did you oil the filter?  I think the 02 sensor doing that is normal, if it was always rich or always lean you'd have a problem.  (note: i think)

Er... a bit hard to put the mesh back on, it's been literally ripped out... only the rear one though, the front one is still there...just like quite a few others have done, with no issues... *shrugs*... filter is dry type... you would think that considering the whole thing about nissan programming the skylines to be on the rich side, it would constantly state rich, or at least, for most of the time.

Probably also should mention that I demeshed the afm because I thought it may help with the problems I've been experiencing (ie, I was having the problems before I did the mesh), although it doesn't seem that way... perhaps I'll borrow a full afm from someone and see what changes it makes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...