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I spent an hour removing one of these from an 85 MR30 lift back this afternoon and paid $ 50 for it . Does anyone know if there are rebuild kits for these and if the worm and sectors are still available . One other thing I noticed was that all three MR30's at the wrecker had worn joints on the nearside (idler arm) end of the drag link . My DR's steering box has a shocking amount of freeplay that can't be adjusted out . I dread to think what Nissan would want for a new one , if there's any left .

Any help appreciated , Cheers A .

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I spent an hour removing one of these from an 85 MR30 lift back this afternoon and paid $ 50 for it . Does anyone know if there are rebuild kits for these and if the worm and sectors are still available . One other thing I noticed was that all three MR30's at the wrecker had worn joints on the nearside (idler arm) end of the drag link . My DR's steering box has a shocking amount of freeplay that can't be adjusted out . I dread to think what Nissan would want for a new one , if there's any left .  

Any help appreciated , Cheers  A .

Spoke to the guys from datsport very helpful.

http://www.datsport.com/

Unfortuneatley the 1600 suspension and steering is different enough to not allow their kits to be used on DR. But the guy I spoke to really knows his old nissan suspension.

Spoke to the guys from datsport very helpful.

http://www.datsport.com/

Unfortuneatley the 1600 suspension and steering is different enough to not allow their kits to be used on DR.  But the guy I spoke to really knows his old nissan suspension.

Oath!! Barry knows his shit very well!!!

I spoke to Peter from Sydney Suspensions (Heasmans) and he said that there is a high point in the worm sector interface and it should be adjusted to have no freeplay there (in the straight ahead position). The trouble is the further away from this point either way you go the more the freeplay there is . I can jack my car up and have about a quarter of an inch of movement in the offside wheel at full lock . Is this normal with these cars and this type of steering system ? I very much doubt the GRP A cars were raced like this .

Can anyone with experience in dinosaur era steering systems offer any solutions .

Cheers A .

I spoke to Peter from Sydney Suspensions (Heasmans) and he said that there is a high point in the worm sector interface and it should be adjusted to have no freeplay there (in the straight ahead position). The trouble is the further away from this point either way you go the more the freeplay there is . I can jack my car up and have about a quarter of an inch of movement in the offside wheel at full lock . Is this normal with these cars and this type of steering system ? I very much doubt the GRP A cars were raced like this .  

Can anyone with experience in dinosaur era steering systems offer any solutions .

Cheers  A .

The thing is becuase these cars when they raced were brand new, nothing had worn so i very much doubt that there would've been any play in them...Mine has got a little bit of play but its nothing that worries...It would be interesting to see if you got a brand new one from nissan if that has play in it or not????

I think all the trouble is in the many inner/outer tire-rod ends,drag link,pitman arm,etc,etc rather than the steering box itself? Providing the actual box isn't worn of course.Maybe there is some inherent fault in the *30's? Geez,even my old worn out KE20 coupe doesn't tram line and carry on like my HR30 used to! :confused:

Some bad news peoples , R30 Pwr Steering Boxes no longer available nor worms or sectors . Drag links are still around early and late type (changed around 10/83) but expensive at $458 retail . The race cars used one off special internals to suit that application .

Some bad news peoples , R30 Pwr Steering Boxes no longer available nor worms or sectors . Drag links are still around early and late type (changed around 10/83) but expensive at $458 retail . The race cars used one off special internals to suit that application .

That makes converting to rack and pinion sound even better. Frount runner (just from talking to some people who know Nissan) is currently series 2 280zx x-crossmember, rack and I may have the use the lower control arms and steering column.

I need to spend some time at wreakers with a tape measure.

What measurement do I need other than the size of the rack, were it sits in relation to the control arms and x-member, tie rod length, x-member size and were it sits in relation to the front wheels, track width of car, amount of left to right movement of rack/tie rods, pivot points of tie-rod arms

Does any of this make sense of am I just talking shit?

Dont know much but I am trying to learn.

Cheers

Remember that 70's cars didn't use the zero scrub geometry and hub offsets are different for this reason . To get around this you may need to cut and shut your control arms with the inner section from the Z . S12 stuff may be worth looking into (same era ) . Import Bluebird 910 with power rack could go close . Thats what I have and will use if my rally fabricator runs out of work . He once fitted manual Bluebird steering to an MR30 but can't remember which X member he used . The control arms were I think Skyline outer and Bluebird inner (cut and shut) . The steering arms were shortened Bluebird .

Remember that 70's cars didn't use the zero scrub geometry and hub offsets are different for this reason . To get around this you may need to cut and shut your control arms with the inner section from the Z . S12 stuff may be worth looking into (same era ) . Import Bluebird 910 with power rack could go close . Thats what I have and will use if my rally fabricator runs out of work . He once fitted manual Bluebird steering to an MR30 but can't remember which X member he used . The control arms were I think Skyline outer and Bluebird inner (cut and shut) . The steering arms were shortened Bluebird .

280zx series 2 was 82-83 I think. Yeah a few people have suggested S12 and the bloke from datsport also suggested a bluebird rack. Let me know how it goes if you go ahead was the job. What's the deal with cut and shut control arms, needs to be x-rayed to get engineer cert right?

No just a good race or rally fabricator who genuinely can weld and measure . I doubt anyone will look too close at a 20+ year old car , if its done properly it should look factory . Incidentally try running nolathane caster (radius rod) bushes and very little or no toe in . Mine has 6 deg positive caster , 1/2 neg camber and next time out from 1/16 toe to zero . Is feeling better .

oh this is nicely timed, I've been getting th DR ready for rego, dropped it in to have a seal replaced cause I don't have the gear for it, steering box was r000ted..$465 to have it rebuilt...thats just the rebuild cost nothing else. apparently they're just like nothing else around.

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